10:56PM | Sala Comacina | Italy
Espresso doppio outside at our now regular bar-café under clear blue skies. Sunday appears to be a day for bicycle enthusiasts, who travel in colorful swarms along the roads, rivaling their motored companions for daring and speed.
After a quick drive up to Tremezzo and a bit of inventive parking, we catch the ferry to Bellagio. The lake stretches leisurely to north and south, and a cool wind plays gently against the brilliant sun. Bellagio teems with visitors from around the world, with particularly strong representation from the Brits and French.
We spend a relaxed few hours in a courtyard restaurant, sampling local ravioli, mozzarella, nebbiolo, tiramisu, and affogato. After lunch we walk to the point where the lake splits east and west, take in the impressive panoramas, and identify the mountain from yesterday’s climb.
After a lakeside coffee we manage to catch the wrong return boat, and wind up touring the Villa Carlotta, an impressive estate with remarkable gardens, perched perfectly on the western shore of the lake. For dinner, la Comacina down the street — mushroom gnocchi, bresaola, and trout. Nightcap in a busy soccer bar: Sambucca and limoncello and gelato; Lugano tomorrow.