Small. Morey-St-Denis exemplifies the small scale of Burgundian winemaking. Wedged between two more famous neighbors, this village of 680 people has a vineyard surface of under 4 tenths of a square mile. It’s dark, delicious, classic red Burgundy — there just isn’t much of it to go around.
Michel Gros has a tiny parcel in Morey-St-Denis from which he makes fewer than 1000 bottles annually. The vines perch on the hill above the town, and the vineyard directly borders three Grand Crus: Clos de Tart, Clos des Lambrays, and Bonnes-Mares. We’re excited to have a bit left of Gros’s Morey-St-Denis from the excellent 2012 vintage, now five years on from harvest and drinking beautifully.
Classic. Master of Wine Clive Coates describes the wines of Morey as a cross between the silkiness of Chambolle-Musigny and the sturdiness of Gevrey-Chambertin. Gros’s Morey-St-Denis is closer to the Chambolle side, and shows an elegant mouthfeel that’s typical of his style. We found beautiful, dark blackberry fruit in this wine, with cool, ripe tannins.
In 2012 the yields in Gros’s Morey plot were 25% lower than usual, and the result is a year with extra concentration and excellent depth. Allen Meadows (Burghound) was impressed with the 2012, calling it “delicious and attractively textured,” and with “very fine minerality,” and a “velvety, lingering finish.”
There is a beautiful tension in this wine, at once rich and energetic. It’s classic red Burgundy, showing elegance rather than heaviness. Pair this with game birds — think duck or cornish hen — and you’ll remember why good Burgundy is worth chasing.
GROS Morey-St-Denis 2012
Ansonia Retail: $72
3+ bottle price : $64/bot
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