We often joke that inhabitants of the Beaujolais consider themselves Burgundian, but that the rest of Burgundy isn’t quite as sure. And while differences between the two halves abound — grape varietal, soil type, landscape, etc. — they share a tradition and style as well.
We call today’s wine “Red Burgundy” intentionally. The grape may be gamay and the zip code may be Juliénas, but this wine exhibits many of the characteristics of our favorite Pinot Noirs. It’s a combination of old vines (planted in the 1940s), expert craftsmanship, and Burgundian elevage. At the price, this could easily become your new house red Burgundy.
The Domaine Perrachon has made wine in Juliénas since the 1870s. Today we’re enthusiastically suggesting their 2015 Juliénas “Clos des Chers.” Made from south facing vines and raised in large 500L barrels, it marries the dark intensity of old-vine gamay with a bit of polish from further north. Or as one taster put it at our warehouse last weekend, “there’s a lot of wine in that glass.”
This is as serious and sophisticated a Beaujolais as we have ever seen. The nose is inky and dense, with dark blue fruits, violets, and pleasant spices like nutmeg and pepper. The mouth is very fine and intense, with beautiful texture, sturdy fruit, and notes of baked blueberries and roses. Burghound called it “exceptionally pretty,” “rich,” and “caressing,” predicting “it could easily enjoyed now [but] there is plenty of upside development potential.”
We’re hard pressed to find a better value in Burgundy today. It’s not from a fancy town or a “noble” grape, but this is true red Burgundy at a remarkably friendly price.
Perrachon Juliénas “Clos des Chers” 2015
bottle price: $25
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