Our only Italian producer, the Fattoria Poggerino, has long been a favorite among our readers. Their wines are all pure sangiovese — dark, delicately balanced expressions of an intense, powerful grape. Rajat Parr in his recent book calls their wines “excellent” and “some of the purest expressions of the grape in Italy.”
Poggerino’s finest wine is their Chianti Classico Riserva from the “Bugialla” vineyard. Like Poggerino’s other wines, it is pure, unblended Sangiovese. But the Riserva comes from their oldest vines — nearly 45 years old now — and they raise it carefully in oak before bottling. Poggerino holds it a full year in the bottle before releasing it to the public.
With its time in the bottle, Poggerino’s Riserva becomes a remarkably elegant Chianti — as complex and subtle as many Burgundies. The density from the old vines and the time in oak means this is often hard to approach in its youth. But the 2014 is juicy and bursting with perfectly ripened fruit. After an hour in a decanter (or another 3-4 years), you’ll wish you had more around.
The Riserva’s nose is dark in complexion and tenor, but also contains silky high notes of roses and minerals. We found lovely blackberry jam, cherries, and graphite in the nose, but it’s in the mouth that this wine really comes alive. Look for a dynamic mouthfeel, with juicy “crunchy” notes of currants, licorice, and blueberries.
For those looking to cellar, or with a crowd coming for the holidays, this is also available in magnums. Serve with a wintery roast — lamb, pork, or beef.
Poggerino Chianti Classico Riserva 2014
bottle price: $48
FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 750ml BOTTLES
Poggerino Chianti Classico Riserva 2014 (1.5L)
magnum price: $95