Chardonnay is responsible for all of Burgundy’s finest white wines. But 10% of white wine vineyards in Burgundy are Aligoté, a less celebrated grape that produces simple, refreshing wines. Aligoté is seldom magnificent, but in the hands of the right winemaker it can be delicious.
Boyer-Martenot’s Aligoté is unlike any other we’ve had, with a rich mouthfeel and unusually complex bouquet. Vincent Boyer, a highly skilled craftsman of rich, elegant Meursault, has managed to apply a bit of his magic to this grape. Forget what you know about Aligoté — Boyer’s is real white Burgundy.
Drawing from vines with an average age of over 40 years, Boyer’s Aligoté is smoother and rounder than any we’ve had. The secret is his use of 5- and 7-year-old barrels to age the wine — barrels too old to impart much oak flavor, but which aid in microoxygenation and add softness and depth.
Boyer’s Aligoté from his stellar 2017 lineup has just arrived in the warehouse, and it may be his best yet. The nose shows wild honey and herbs, with white flowers and classic green apple. The mouth is lively but smooth, with a dry, floral richness that’s nearly unheard of for Aligoté.
For readers interested in making kir, we have an exceptional crème de cassis source — a glass of this wine joined by a splash of cassis will be a fantastic match. But, for once, the cassis isn’t mandatory — this is a complex, pleasant glass of white Burgundy on its own.
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Boyer-Martent Aligoté 2017
bottle price: $22
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