Delightful Everyday Syrah: “Graceful” & Hearty. $25

Our source in Côte Rôtie is the Domaine Bonnefond. Robert Parker calls Bonnefond’s wines “among the finest in the appellation,” and Vinous’s Josh Raynolds recently called them “as graceful a group of wines that I’ve ever sampled.”

Last week we wrote about their exceptional 2015 Côte Rôtie “Rochains,” which Vinous called “superb” and awarded 95 points. Today’s Bonnefond Syrah is a bit easier on the wallet — it’s not as profound, and won’t cellar nearly as well. But it’s as complex and polished as any $25 bottle we can think of.

Made just outside the Côte Rôtie appellation, the 2017 Syrah is among our favorite vintages they’ve made of this wine. The nose is spiced and expressive, with notes of blackberries, tapenade, black pepper, and game. The mouth is beautifully balanced — at 12.5% alcohol it’s smooth and long, with dense meaty notes joining plum fruits and graceful minerality.

This is dangerously drinkable wine — something you might enjoy in a Parisian bistro or a picnic by the Seine. It’s not something to cellar or to serve to visiting dignitaries, but it will wash down a hearty steak or wood fired pizza with style.

 

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Bonnefond Syrah 2017
bottle price: $25

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