For years we’ve referred to St-Aubin as the “insider’s white Burgundy.” But it’s hard to keep a secret when Rajat Parr writes writes “it produces some of the best-value Chardonnays in the world,” and Jancis Robinson says it “should now be regarded as virtually the equal” of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet.
Still, as the wine world finally discovers just how good St-Aubin can be, the town remains an exceptional source for white Burgundy value. The Thomas family has lived and made wine in St-Aubin for over 70 years, and has long been one of our favorite value sources in the region.
Four of their 2017s all just arrived in the warehouse, and they’re as good a lineup as we can remember. Today we’re suggesting their village-level St-Aubin “Champ Tirant.”
Thomas’s 2017s are magical. Their fleshy texture and shimmery character make them profound, exciting, and very much alive. The St-Aubin “Champ Tirant” drinks far more like a premier cru than usual, showing an impressive fullness and length. Jancis Robinson called it “full, satisfying, [and] creamy.”
The nose shows notes of green apple, buttered toast, and chives. The mouth is intense, rich, and vibrant, with a smooth texture showing stones, hay, hazelnut and meyer lemon zest. We usually suggest this as a humble upgrade from Thomas’s Bourgogne; but this year is different. Serve this with a sophisticated dish, like chicken with shallots, morels, and cream. It’s the best sub-$40 white Burgundy we’ve had in years.
Thomas St-Aubin 2017
bottle price: $36
FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES