We’ve opened a lot of white Burgundy over the past two weeks, and we can confirm St-Aubin remains one of the best values out there. From a forgotten valley wedged between two superstar towns, the wines of St-Aubin can be every bit as good as those from Chassagne and Puligny.
We’ve written recently about Gérard Thomas’s excellent Bourgogne and St-Aubin from 2017; today we’re suggesting their Premier Cru. From a beautiful plot overlooking the hill of Montrachet, the “Murgers des Dents de Chiens” is only a few hundred yards from Montrachet itself.
St-Aubin is no longer quite the secret it once was, but it’s still the most overperforming wine in Burgundy.
Thomas’s St-Aubin 1er cru 2017 is exquisite — even in a year that produced gorgeous, shimmering whites from all over Burgundy, Thomas’s 2017s stand out. The texture is rich and intense, with excellent balance and beautiful minerality. The oak is perfectly integrated into the wine, with notes of yellow fruits, pears, and spice.
Jancis Robinson called this wine “radiant” with “apple fruit on the palate” and “lovely smoky oak notes on the finish.” She concluded: “bold, expressive, lengthy and expansive. One of the best St-Aubins.” (Pretty hard to improve on that, so we won’t.)
Thomas St-Aubin 1er cru
“Murgers des Dents de Chien” 2017
bottle price: $42
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