In general, red Burgundy is subtler than red Bordeaux. There are obvious exceptions: well-aged Margaux can be elegant and ethereal, and Gevrey-Chambertin can be bold and rich. But most often, thin-skinned Pinot Noir from limestone-laden soils of Burgundy is more elegant wines than Merlot and Cabernets from clay-rich earth of Bordeaux.
With that in mind, today’s Bordeaux is right in line with expectations. The 2015 Destieux St-Emilion Grand Cru is concentrated, inky and bold — you’d identify is at “not-Burgundy” by sight alone. It’s also, to quote Vinous founder Antonio Galloni, “flat-out delicious.”
Galloni calls Destieux a “modern” St-Emilion — what it lacks in delicacy it makes up for in dazzle. He awards 92 points, and describes it as “flamboyant… unctuous, deep and super-concentrated,” calling it a “texturally rich, sumptuous wine that hits all the right notes.” It may not be subtle, but it’s awfully fun.
The nose shows cocoa, black tea, plums, spice, and violets. The mouth is deep and very long; the tannins are inky and beautifully coated. It needs about an hour in a decanter today, or another 5 years in the cellar – it should age 15 more with ease, if desired.
Brown some strip steaks and plunge your nose into a glass of this; it’s the pure hedonistic pleasure you deserve every once in a while.
Destieux St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 2015
bottle price: $85
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