The wines of the Domaine des Varoilles are at the bold end of the Burgundy spectrum. All of their cuvées come from Gevrey-Chambertin, a village known for its robust, masculine wines. Where much red Burgundy tends towards subtleness and finesse, the Varoilles style is noticeably more intense.
We didn’t realize Varoilles even made a Bourgogne until it appeared on a price list this spring. We tasted the 2015 in April and were thrilled to discover it was right in line with the rest of the domaine’s wines — its density and richness calls to mind a village level Gevrey-Chambertin rather than regional level wine.
For those looking to sample the Varoilles style at a more reasonable price, here’s a surprise opportunity.
As with most of Burgundy, terroir explains everything. The vines for this Bourgogne are just over the border from Gevrey-Chambertin, in clay-rich soils producing rich, mouthfilling wine. Combine this with the 2015 vintage, considered among the best in a generation, and this wine is an impressive value.
The nose is big and spicy, with briary blackberry fruit, notes of woods, cinnamon, and a hint of ginger. The mouth is bold and smooth with a solid texture laid under intense masculine fruit.
If you’ve got room in your cellar (and budget) for some of Varoilles’s other 2015s, we recommend them. But their 2015 Bourgogne rouge requires no waiting – and, at under $8/glass, it’s a rare Burgundy value.
Varoilles Bourgogne 2015
bottle price: $39
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