Meursault is a village stuck in time. Its narrow crooked streets and pointed steeple perch on a hill above fields of weathered vineyards first planted by monks in 1098. The golden nectar of these fields has been known for centuries, and today it is as sought-after as any wine in the world.
Meursault has no grand crus, but its three famous premier crus — Perrieres, Genevrières, and Charmes — almost make up for it. These exceptional terroirs produce some of Burgundy’s greatest wines of any color. Today we’re focused on Genevrières.
In his excellent recent book Rajat Parr describes Genevrières as: “crystalline in structure, at once gossamer and formidable.” We’ve asked to buy Vincent Boyer’s Genevrières for years, but received our first allocation only last year.
We found the 2017 Genevrières magnificent, among the best white Burgundies we’ve had in years. Critics were similarly effusive; Burghound awarded 92 points, finding it “sleek” and “refined,” citing “lovely minerality” along side “pear and apple” and “acacia blossom.” Steven Tanzer of Vinous found awarded 91-94 points, calling it “at once thick and piquant,” and “classic, dense, vibrant,” and concluding “this is superb.”
Simply put, this is extraordinary wine — it’s not cheap, but greatness rarely is.
Boyer-Martenot Meursault 1er “Genevrières” 2017
bottle price: $132
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