Of the 12,000 acres of vineyards planted in Chablis, only 250 acres (2%) qualify as Grand Cru. And of these, most consider the “Les Clos” the finest. As Clive Coates MW puts it, Les Clos is “Chablis at its very, very finest.”
As you can imagine, there’s not much of Les Clos to go around. The Domaine Jean Collet’s tiny plot of 65-year old vines covers less than half and acre – enough for about 1,000 bottles – but the wine is always superb. Winemaker Romain Collet has made great strides since taking over the domaine seven years ago, and today Jasper Morris MW writes that Romain Collet’s domaine “is moving towards joining the pantheon” in Chablis.
We’ve just received Collet’s 2018 Les Clos in the warehouse — it’s impressive, powerful and rich. This is as serious as white wine gets, but amid its depth and concentration lies a subtle elegance and tension. Morris awarded 91-95 points, finding it “very solid, concentrated,” and identified a “sunny spice” alongside the “typical white fruit.” Look for notes of pear, grapeskin, orchard fruit and shells.
It’s hard to find Grand Cru Burgundy of either color for less than $100/bot, and many push quickly past $500. At $75/bot this wine is hardly your next by the glass house white, but for what it delivers it remains a genuine bargain. It’s not a wine you’ll soon forget.
Collet Chablis Grand Cru “Les Clos” 2018
bottle price: $75
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