The 2017 vintage in red Burgundy continues to impress. No one considers it a “great vintage” (stay tuned for 2019), but its accessibility and seductive texture makes it delightful early. The tannins are appealingly soft and the acidities relatively low — it’s an approachable, early-drinking vintage that’s providing much enjoyment already. Or as Burghound puts it: “user-friendly.”
Today we’re suggesting Pierre Amiot’s 2017 Morey-St-Denis 1er cru “Aux Charmes.” The vines are from a premier cru plot adjoining the great Grand Cru Charmes-Chambertin, and its name is apt. The wine always shows a silky, charming texture, but in 2017 it’s pleasant a few years ahead of schedule.
The bottle of Charmes 17 we opened recently was just outstanding. The nose shows candied red fruits and faint toast; the mouth is silky smooth with intense red cherry and cinnamon spice. The tannins are papery, muted, and fine, showing the texture of a far more mature wine. Burghound found notes of “plum, violet and dark currant,” calling it “an exercise in harmony.”
If you have cellar space and patience to age red Burgundy, you might pick something from 2015, 2016, or 2018. The 2017s may not be around for the long haul, but they’re irresistibly delicious today.
Amiot Morey-St-Denis 1er “Charmes” 2017
bottle price: $75
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