The best kept secret in a Burgundy collector’s cellar is his stash of St-Aubin. From a once forgotten valley wedged between the superstar towns of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet, the wines of St-Aubin are some of the most overperforming wines we know. Jancis Robinson calls it now “virtually the equal” of its famous neighbors.
St-Aubins may not be the bargain they were a decade ago, but they still offer tremendous value, and the quality keeps getting better. Combine St-Aubin’s naturally stony soil and high elevation with recent warm-weather vintages, and you’ve got a recipe for truly exciting white Burgundy.
Thomas’s St-Aubin 1er cru is exquisite wine — consistently excellent year in and year out. It’s polished and modern, and drinks like a far fancier bottle. The 2019 is sumptuous rather than subtle — it doesn’t take much effort to enjoy this bottle.
Winemaker Isabel Humbert has channeled the extra weight from the warm summer into a powerful, mouthfilling, delicious wine, which nonetheless retains its vibrancy. The oak is perfectly integrated into the wine, with notes of yellow fruits, pears, and spice.
White Burgundy isn’t getting any cheaper, but St-Aubin continues to get better.
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Thomas St-Aubin 1er “Murgers” 2019
bottle price: $49
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