In the dozen years since he took over his family’s domaine, Romain Collet has elevated its reputation as fast as any new generation we’ve witnessed. We’ve noticed it ourselves, but we’re not alone — writers from Vinous, Burghound and Robert Parker have noted a “higher level of refinement” and a “significant upsurge in quality.” Jasper Morris MW writes that Romain Collet “is moving towards joining the pantheon” in Chablis.
Last week we wrote about Collet’s beautiful old-vine village level Chablis, and the bottle we had open at the warehouse on Saturday was a real hit with our tasters. Today we’re suggesting a slight upgrade: the 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons, showing everything we loved about the old-vine Chablis, but more of it.
The Collets farm a very large plot here – almost 9 hectares – and the soils are particularly heavy in limestone. Romain raises this cuvée in a combination of stainless, old barrels, foudres, which add complexity rather than any notes of oak. In 2019 he’s balanced a warm vintage and sunny vineyard plot with excellent tension and classic Chablisienne freshness.
The nose offers a hint of dry spice with the fruit, and in the mouth a touch of salinity focuses the wine’s minerality. The result is a wine that’s drier than Collet’s Montmains, and one in which the stones dominate the fruit. Morris gave this Vaillons 91-93 points, noting “impressive intensity” and finding it “very persistent.” The 2019 is among the best vintages we can remember for this wine, a perfect balance of fruit and minerals.
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Collet Chablis 1er “Vaillons” 2019
bottle price: $35
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