For years we used to visit the Domaine Desvignes in Givry for humble, straightforward red Burgundies with excellent pricing. But in the years since Gautier Desvignes has taken over, the domaine has transformed into one of the leading lights in the Côte Chalonnaise. In a remarkably short time, Gautier has upgraded the winemaking facilities, bottling practices, and viticulture, with truly exciting results.
We’re not the only ones to notice – both Vinous’s Neal Martin and the Wine Advocate’s William Kelley MW have identified Gautier as a rising star, and the results of his work are more impressive every year. Last fall Kelley reported: “The young Gautier Desvignes continues his rapid ascent at the 11-hectare estate, and I was delighted by these new releases. … Elegant, sumptuous reds and bright, chiseled whites are the order of the day, and everything reviewed here comes warmly recommended.”
The only thing wrong with wines’ rise in popularity is their sudden scarcity. Nearly all of our allocation for the Desvignes reds sold out through Futures last year, and the only red cuvée left in stock is his excellent 2019 Givry. But in recent years Gautier has also turned his considerable skill to his whites wines, and we’re pleased to release one today: the Givry blanc “En Cheneves.”
This is terrific white Burgundy, which actually features 10% of pinot blanc alongside the 90% chardonnay. The wine is crisp and focused: pure Chardonnay fruit with a chalky intensity. The pinot blanc offers a splash of floral notes, and Gautier has oaked it minimally and masterfully. It offers a completeness and complexity that recalls the famous whites of the Côte d’Or to the north, far overperforming its humble origin.
Kelley found “crisp yellow orchard fruit, white flowers and hazelnuts” calling it “bright and precise.” If you missed out on Gautier’s 2019 reds, keep your eye out for September Futures later this year. But in the meantime, we can’t recommend this delicious white enough.
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Desvignes Givry blanc “En Cheneves” 2019
bottle price: $32