We visited Romain Collet in Chablis yesterday morning – he pruned late this year and wasn’t too worried about tonight’s forecasted frost. (It’s another story in the Côte d’Or.) Spring frosts have become the norm in Chablis these days, and Romain has steered his domaine beautifully, making terrific wines in difficult circumstances.
His 2021s tasted in tank were vibrant, energetic wines with classic Chablisienne zip. His 2020s from bottle are similarly excellent, with a generous, approachable lushness laid over a crisp core of minerals. (The 2020s will be in next month’s May Futures.) Romain has long since sold all his terrific 2019s, a very dry vintage with excellent concentration and a laser focus – but we’ve got several of them left in stock in the states.
Today we’re suggesting his 2019 Chablis 1er cru “Forêts,” the cuvée for those who like their Chablis steely and bone-dry.
Wine Critics Allen Meadows (Burghound) and William Kelley (Wine Advocate) have noted a “higher level of refinement” and a “significant upsurge in quality.” Jasper Morris MW writes that Romain Collet “is moving towards joining the pantheon” in Chablis.
From a subsection of the Montmains hillside, this plot is extremely steep and stony. This cuvée is vinified in cement eggs, which allow a long, slow, cool fermentation. The 2019 Forêts is electric and vibrant, with muted fruit and a gorgeous fresh salinity. Drink all spring as the earth awakens from hibernation.
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Collet Chablis 1er “Forêts” 2019
bottle price: $38