With the first heatwave of the summer upon us, we’re in the mood for something simple and crisp. The usual hot-weather answers from our cellar are Chablis, Sancerre, or dry Riesling, but recently we’ve been reaching for Grüner-Veltliner from our lone Austrian source
“Austrian wine” is nearly synonymous with Grüner-Veltliner, and indeed 75% of the world’s Grüner is Austrian. The grape’s typical expression is dry and savory, with excellent acidity and low alcohol. It’s a lovely glass on its own, but we think it particularly shines with food.
Salomon-Undhof’s Grüner “Wieden” is an unusually refined wine for its price and level. The nose shows juniper, herbs and lime. The mouth is dry and mid-weight, with notes of cucumber, lime zest, and grape skins. At 12.5% alcohol and with excellent freshness, this is a Swiss army knife when it comes to matching food.
Robert Parker’s reviewer gave 90 points, finding “a very fine and subtly flinty bouquet of perfectly ripe seed fruits. Medium-bodied, round and fresh, with salty-piquant acidity, this is a medium-bodied and juicy Veltliner with good balance and length.”
It’s important to stay hydrated with water amid the heat; but after you’ve done so, a cold glass of this is just the ticket.
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Salomon-Undhof Grüner “Wieden” 2020
bottle price: $19