With costs rising in nearly every step of the winemaking process – tractors, corks, bottles, labels, boxes, and so on – it’s no wonder the prices from the domaines are rising too. All of this makes the quality of Alsatian wine today even more impressive. Our source here is Charles Frey, an old family winery based in Dambach-la-Ville in central Alsace.
The Frey family is firmly committed to biodynamic viticulture and winemaking, in spite of its increased costs and labor. And that commitment pays off – their wines are vibrant, energetic, and simply delicious. They also happen to be some of the best values in our cellar. Below are four of our favorites – all (somehow) still below $25/bot.
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PINOT BLANC: $19
Frey’s Pinot Blanc was once called “Auxerrois” under the Mersiol label, before the two domaines merged a decade ago. The 2020 vintage is delicious, as good as Auxerrois ever was. It features the characteristic orchard fruit nose — along the lines of white peaches — with a touch of briskness and a clean, dry finish. Serve this before a meal as a humble, delicious aperitif.
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SYLVANER: $22
Sylvaner is a popular grape in Germany, but very little is exported to the US. Frey’s Sylvaner “Intemporel” offers a very expressive nose of cloves and spices like white pepper and juniper. These notes carry through in the mouth, along with a very attractive touch of gentle grape-peel bitterness with excellent freshness. Serve with Lo Mein or a Thai curry.
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RIESLING: $22
Frey’s Riesling “Granite” 2020 is classic and dry, bursting with granite minerality from the stony soils. It has enticing hints of petrol that often appear in the nose of a Riesling, but with lovely fruit and freshness, as well as touch of salinity. A perfect balance between fruit and minerals. Serve it with oysters on the half shell.
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PINOT NOIR: $22
Frey also makes a delightful, unoaked Pinot Noir – it’s simple and unserious in the best sense of the word. The nose shows honey and dark cherries, with fine minerals and cool stoninness – there’s a healthy dose of pleasant natural wine funkiness too. The mouth is smooth and ripe, with low tannin and nice freshness. Pour it where you would a rosé, but when the mood (or food) calls for something with a bit more substance.
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