Posted on

Weeknight Sangiovese, and the Pleasure of Life. $19

We’re looking forward to our trip to France next week. We will tasting with some exciting new prospects, and revisiting many of our old favorites. As the current three-month rail strike and “Easter Monday” holiday have reminded us, things move a bit slower in Europe. While it can be frustrating in matters of business, there’s no doubt that the pace is healthier for the soul.

And however laid back the French may be about their work lives, the Italians have them beat. There’s a certain ease to the Italian way of life — la dolce far niente, as they put it. Combine this with a Mediterranean diet and you get the fifth longest life expectancy in the world.

And as signs of Spring reappear and cooped up New Englanders reconnect with the natural world, we’re feeling a bit Italian ourselves. So we’re suggesting an everyday Chianti on a lazy Sunday afternoon — pair it with the joy of living and not paying taxes. (Ansonia Wines does not endorse tax evasion.)

 

 

Last week we wrote about Poggerino’s excellent Chianti Classico 2014, and the bottles we opened at the Depot yesterday held their own among Nuits-St-Georges and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Today we’re recommending Poggerino’s simpler wine — Il Labirinto. It would qualify to be labeled Chianti Classico, but years ago the winemakers decided to bottle wine from their younger vines under a separate label.

The 2016 Labirinto offers many of the same pleasures as their Chianti Classico, but with less tannin, less complexity, and for a couple fewer bucks. In the nose it shows violets, cherries, cassis and some earth. The mouth is intense and energetic — the tannins are young but juicy, and the mouthfeel is bold and refreshing. Look for sour cherry jam and minerals.

As with the Chianti Classico, this is a perfect match for anything with pomodori. Once summer arrives, you’ll want this for capreses and picnics. While there’s still a chill in the air, pair it with a long-simmered bolognese or tomato sauce. Just make sure not to worry about it too much.

 

____________________________

Poggerino Labirinto 2016

Ansonia Retail: $24
6+ bottle price : $19/bot

 

Add to Cart



FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES

 

 

Posted on

New Pure Grenache: a Juicy, Refreshing Welcome to Spring.

Springtime has returned. Baseball is back, green shoots are pushing through the dirt, and but for a freak snowstorm here and there we seem to be on the path to warmer weather. It’s not quite rosé season yet, but that’s not far off either.

Many of our favorite springtime red wines come from the Mas Foulaquier, an organic source in the northern Languedoc. Foulaquier’s ethos fits perfectly with a springtime reawakening — with minimal intervention and no chemical treatments, their vineyards are gardens of life. Bees, rabbits, and wildflowers populate their rows of vines, and the wines they produce are similarly alive.

Today’s offer is for their just-arrived 2015 “Petit Duc,” a 100% grenache wine whose aromas burst from the glass unhindered by filtering or heavy sulfur. It’s just the thing to accompany the new season’s arrival.

 

 

If all biodynamic wines were all this good, everyone might convert. Today’s “Petit Duc” is precise, elegant, and astonishingly complex. The nose is bright and pure, with clear notes ranging from roasted cherries and cassis to lavender and bay leaf. The mouth is dense and smooth, with herbal honey notes joining distilled wild cherry.

Grenache usually appears in blends with syrah and other grapes. But this cuvée presents it alone and it more than holds its own. Tasted blind in might trick you into guessing an organic Pinot Noir. Pair it with fresh goat cheese, or anything Mediterranean.

We much enjoyed all the skiing we squeezed in this season, but we admit to some excitement that spring is here at last.

 

____________________________

Foulaquier Petit Duc 2015

Ansonia Retail: $40
6+ bottle price : $35/bot

 

Add to Cart



FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES

 

 

Posted on

Mixed Half-Case: Gevrey-Chambertin Sampler, $91 off

When the words “muscular” and “red Burgundy” appear together, Gevrey-Chambertin is likely the subject. The wines of Gevrey-Chambertin are generally considered Burgundy’s richest, and can be among the longest lived. Clive Coates MW calls them “sturdy, rich, masculine” and “fleshy,” concluding that they’re “more flamboyant than Vosne, and more substantial than Chambolle.”

We’re pleased to have three excellent producers making wines in the town, and we’ve collected six of our favorites into today’s half-case sampler. They are three village-level wines and three premier crus from two recent stellar vintages: 2014 and 2015.

If “light” is your idea of red Burgundy, you haven’t tried these…

 

 

VAROILLES Gevrey-Chambertin “Clos du Meix des Ouches” 2014
VAROILLES Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru “La Romanée” 2014
The Domaine des Varoilles is our newest source for red Burgundy. Their style is classic Gevrey — rich, bold, and extracted. Both of these vineyards are monopoles, and the quality is excellent. Meix des Ouches is a village with unusual ripeness and mouthfilling texture; Romanée is an exceptionally elegant premier cru combining the boldness of Gevrey with the elegance of Vosne.

QUIVY Gevrey-Chambertin “En Champs” 2015
QUIVY Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru “Corbeaux” 2014
Gerard Quivy’s style is a bit less extracted than Varoilles, but these have the unmistakable dark fruit and earthiness of true Gevrey. The Guide Hachette calls Quivy “a reference point for Gevrey.” The village level En Champs comes from very old vines, which adds to its complexity and depth. The premier cru Corbeaux is similarly dark and brooding, and drinks quite well young.

AMIOT Gevrey-Chambertin 2015
AMIOT Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru “Les Combottes” 2014
Jean-Louis and Didier Amiot are based in neighboring Morey-St-Denis, but their Gevrey-Chambertins are excellent. Amiot’s style is sophisticated and modern, with careful oak and perfect extraction. Their 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin is remarkably delicious today, showing dense fruit and a beautiful long mouthfeel. The “Combottes” vineyard is among the finest 1er crus in Gevrey-Chambertin, surrounded on all sides by Grand Crus — it is as rich and impressive as its location suggests.

 

____________________________

Gevrey-Chambertin Sampler (6)

Ansonia Retail: $486
sampler price : $395/half-case

 

Add to Cart



FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES

 

 

Posted on

“Beguiling” New Chianti Classico: Approachable and Affordable. $25

The most important thing in winemaking is the marriage of grape and place. Chardonnay grows on nearly every continent, but only in Burgundy does it produce such superlative results. Syrah in the Northern Rhône, Merlot in Bordeaux, Riesling in the Mosel, Chenin Blanc in the Loire — these matches have been perfected over centuries of winemaking.

Also on that list is the marriage of Sangiovese to Tuscany. The grape can be found around the world, but its finest expression comes from the hillsides of central Italy. Our Franco-centric portfolio doesn’t leave much room for Sangiovese, but we’d have a customer revolt if we ever dropped the Fattoria Poggerino.

Poggerino’s 100% Sangiovese reds are approachable, delicious, and affordable. The new crop has just arrived in the warehouse, and we’re excited to release the 2014 Chianti Classico today.

 

 

Poggerino’s Chianti Classico 2014 is a delightful wine. It’s juicy and vibrant, showing the purity and expressiveness possible only through organic farming. It’s intense and enticing, with depth and complexity you’d expect from a $50 bottle. The nose is deep and dark, with notes of raspberries, dried roses, and stones; the mouth is long and also floral, with perfectly extracted tannins and plum and spice on the finish. Jancis Robinson found it “beguiling, pure and lithe.”

We’d carafe this for a half hour and serve it with anything tomato based — Marcella Hazan’s impossibly simple pasta sauce is a staple around our house, and pairs beautifully. Or put together a plate of charcuterie and hard cheeses. And if you’ve got a stone and a hot oven, pair this with a pizza (homemade dough takes about 15 minutes) and you’ll be transported to Tuscany.

 

 

____________________________

Poggerino Chianti Classico 2014

Ansonia Retail: $30
6+ bottle price : $25/bot

 

Add to Cart



FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES

 

 

Posted on

Exciting New White Burgundy from a Master of Meursault. $19

Chardonnay is responsible for all of Burgundy’s finest white wines. But 10% of white wine vineyards in Burgundy are Aligoté, a less celebrated grape that produces simple, refreshing wines. Aligoté is seldom magnificent, but in the hands of the right winemaker it can be delicious.

Boyer-Martenot’s Aligoté is unlike any other we’ve had, with a rich mouthfeel and unusually complex bouquet. Vincent Boyer, a highly skilled craftsman of rich, elegant Meursault, has managed to apply a bit of his magic to this grape. Forget what you know about Aligoté — Boyer’s is real white Burgundy.

 

 

From vines with an average age over 40 years, and an excellent vintage, Boyer’s Aligoté is smoother and rounder than most. The secret is his use of 5- and 7-year-old barrels to age the wine — barrels too old to impart much oak flavor, but which help microoxygenation and add softness and depth.

In the nose Boyer’s Aligoté shows wild honey and herbs, with white flowers and classic green apple. The mouth is bright and lively, with a dry, chalky richness that’s nearly unheard of for Aligoté. This is a perfect and versatile white for spring; and for readers interested in making kir, we have an exceptional crème de cassis.

But for this wine, the cassis isn’t mandatory — it is a crisp, pleasant glass of white Burgundy on its own.

 

 

____________________________

Boyer-Martenot Aligoté 2016

Ansonia Retail: $24
6+ bottle price : $19/bot

 

Add to Cart



FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES

 

 

Posted on

The Best of the Best: Exquisite 2016 Grand Cru White Burgundy

Only two white wine terroirs in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or hold the status of Grand Cru. Montrachet and its satellites, in the south between Chassagne and Puligny, are the more famous. The other is Corton-Charlemagne, perched on a large hill marking the midpoint of the Côte d’Or, so named after it was made a gift from the Holy Roman Emperor.

Upon donating the Hill of Corton to a local abbey in 775, the Emperor Charlemagne ordered that it be planted entirely with red grapes. Legend has it that his fourth wife was unhappy with the red wine stains on her husband’s beard, and convinced him to replant a portion of the vineyard with white. The wine was renamed to honor the emperor, and the world was given an extraordinary new wine.

 

 

Corton-Charlemagne is the highest caliber of white Burgundy. Its richness and depth is equaled only by Montrachet, and its ability to age is nearly unrivaled. Our source for this exceptionally fine chardonnay is the Domaine Ravaut, a small family domaine located at the base of the great hill of Corton.

Ravaut’s 2016 Corton-Charlemagne is among the best we’ve seen from them. Like many whites of the vintage, it combines magnificent roundness and power with beautiful tension and energy. This is in its infancy — wines from Corton-Charlemagne can drink well for decades — but it’s already showing remarkable complexity. With a decanter and an hour today, it shows baked apples, juniper, and honey. The mouth is dense, spiced, rich, and impossibly long. As it ages, look for truffle, mushroom, and woodsy notes.

We like to have other white Burgundy around for everyday drinking. But when it’s time to make your guest feel like an emperor, pull out a bottle of this.

 

 

____________________________

Ravaut Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2016

Ansonia Retail: $115
sale price : $99/bot

 

Add to Cart



FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES

 

 

Posted on

2015 Premier Cru Red Burgundy: Rugged and Refined. $35

The 2015 vintage turned out excellent red wines all across Burgundy. From the Beaujolais to Dijon, and from simple Bourgogne to illustrious Grand Crus, the 2015s are worthy of all their considerable praise. Their perfect structures hint at long lives, but their fruits make them simply delightful today.

In lesser years, young reds of the Côte Chalonnaise can be a bit tough. But the 2015 summer’s generous sun shone everywhere in Burgundy and the 2015 reds from here are polished, delicious, and a bargain.

Our current Côte Chalonnaise favorites come from the Domaine Desvignes in Givry, where young winemaker Gautier Desvignes has transformed his traditional family domaine into a source for excellent, refined red Burgundy.

 

 

Many readers have picked up the village level 2015s — Meix des Ouches and Champ la Dame. Today we’re releasing one of Desvignes two 2015 Givry Premier Crus: the Clos Charlé. This cuvée always shows more refinement than the rugged and hardy village level wines, but in this year it’s an even larger step up.

The Clos Charlé shows much of the same intense cherry fruit as the village reds — think wild cherries, cassis, minerals; and vibrant, crackling fruit. But with the jump in classification comes more secondary notes: pan drippings, cloves, anise, spice, and toast mix effortlessly with the fruit to form a truly refined red Burgundy.

We often describe Desvignes’s village wines as a cross between the sophistication of Pinot Noir and the insouciance of Gamay. But there’s nothing casual about this wine — it’s real premier cru red Burgundy, and a steal under $50. We expect these to drink well over a decade, but there’s little chance you’ll be able to keep them that long.

 

 

____________________________

Desvignes Givry 1er “Clos Charlé” 2015

Ansonia Retail: $40
6+ bottle price : $35/bot

 

Add to Cart



FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES

 

 

Posted on

“The Best-Value Chardonnay in the World.”

St. Aubin is the insider’s white Burgundy. For years we’ve pointed our friends and customers here for remarkable values. We are not alone – author/sommelier Rajat Parr writes that “it produces some of the best-value Chardonnays in the world.” Jancis Robinson recently wrote that though once passed over for its more famous neighbors Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny Montrachet, St-Aubin “should now be regarded as virtually their equal.”

The Thomas family has an intimate knowledge of the terroir of St. Aubin — they’ve lived and made wine here for over 70 years. Thomas’s village-level St. Aubin “Champ Tirant” is a recent discovery, and among the better values in our cellar. We always struggle to keep it in stock, and in another short year liked 2016, we fear this won’t be around for long.

 

 

We love to find wines that are a pure expression of their terroir, and Champ Tirant is a perfect example. Wedged between the towns of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet, St. Aubin produces wines similar to its more famous neighbors, but with far smaller price tags.

2016 brought difficulties to many winemakers in the Côte de Beaune. Hail and frost reduced the Thomas family’s crop, but the quality of what remained is excellent. The vintage stands in contrast to 2015’s ripe, mouthfilling style — the 2016s are closer to the 2014s, where freshness, purity, and long tension-filled palates are the norm.

Thomas’s 2016 St. Aubin shows gorgeous round fruit and muted toasty notes. It’s long and elegant, with plenty of young fruit — but there’s an impressive burst of freshness, making it perfect for food. Jancis Robinson called it “attractive,” “finely balanced,” and “zesty.” With spring nearly here, this is a charming glass of white Burgundy, perfect as the weather warms.

 

 

____________________________

Thomas St-Aubin 2016

Ansonia Retail: $40
6+ bottle price : $35/bot

 

Add to Cart



FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES

 

 

Posted on

Violets and Wild Cherries: New Natural, Rugged Languedoc Blend

“Natural” wines can be hard to get right, but when they’re good they can be extraordinary. The wines of the Mas Foulaquier are undoubtedly the finest and most consistent biodynamic reds in our portfolio. The cuvées are exceptionally clean and well formed, marrying ripe fruit with earthy notes from their rugged terroir.

Foulaquier’s philosophy is simple: as little intervention as possible between vineyard and bottle. Their vineyards are “Demeter” certified, the highest level of organic agriculture in the EU. In the cellar, the winemakers use only ambient yeasts, avoid fining and filtering, and add minimal sulfites and only at bottling.

The result is wines that perfectly express their hardy terroir. “Natural” wines can show personality in any climate; but in the untamed Languedoc they’re particularly expressive.

 

 

Our newest cuvée from Foulaquier has just arrived in the warehouse: the 2015 Orphée is a 50/50 blend of Grenache and Syrah. Like the vineyards from which it comes, this wine is full of life. The nose is cool and fresh, showing berries, bay leaf, violets, and earth. The mouth is dark and beautifully textured, with softened tannins and notes of cassis, roses, and spice. This is easy to like and hard to put down.

At the moment this wine is a perfect cocktail party quaffer — smooth and complete on its own, balanced enough that it needs no food. As the earth around us wakes up from winter, this wine fits the season perfectly. With dark berries and earthy flavors jumping from the glass, you can close your eyes and imagine that spring is really here.

 

 

____________________________

Foulaquier Orphée 2015

Ansonia Retail: $30
6+ bottle price : $25/bot

 

Add to Cart



FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES

 

 

Posted on

Irresistible Premier Cru White Burgundy: 91 points, $36

Chablis remains one of the best bargains in the wine world. Though the past few years have brought devastating frosts and hailstorms to the region and available quantities have plummeted, winemakers have only gently raised prices. Where village level white Burgundies from the Côte d’Or quickly push past $60, fine Premier Cru Chablis can still be had for under $40.

And despite Mother Nature’s best efforts at complicating viticulture, the wines of Chablis have never been better. A case in point is today’s 2015 Chablis 1er cru “Les Forêts” from the Domaine Jean Collet — it shows a lively palate and smooth, mouth filling texture. With only a whisper of oak, winemaker Romain calls the 2015s “fleshy,” and we have to agree — their roundness makes them irresistibly drinkable today.

 

 

Romain Collet took over the winemaking at his family’s domaine a few years ago, and the result has been a jump in both quality and consistency. He avoided the over-oaking trap into which many young winemakers fall, explaining that while oaky wines can be good, “they’re just not Chablis.” Burghound (Allen Meadows) as taken note as well, adding Collet last year to the selective list of winemakers he reviews.

This wine has lots of everything — lots of richness, plenty of acidity, loads of fruit, and all in perfect balance. Burghound awarded 91 points, finding “notes of citrus peel, apple, sea breeze” and “impressive richness.” We expect this to drink well for a few years to come, but it’s awfully hard to have just one glass today.

 

 

____________________________

Collet Chablis 1er cru “Forets” 2015

Ansonia Retail: $42
6+ bottle price : $36/bot

 

Add to Cart



FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES

 

 

Posted on

Mixed Case: Steak Pairing Sampler

The best food-wine pairings enhance both elements. Oysters and Chablis, blue cheese and Sauternes, tomato sauce and Sangiovese — these classic pairings have been around so long for a reason. And among the most traditional (and successful) is steak and red wine.

Bordeaux may be more famous for its marriage with steak, but we think Pinots from Burgundy can match well too. We’ve collected two of our favorites from each region and suggest a cut with each.

 

 

Fleuron de Liot St-Estèphe 2015
This blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux’s left bank is dense and meaty, with notes of plum, licorice, cedar and spice. Decant for an hour, and serve with marinated flank steak.

Desvignes Givry 2015
This rugged, hearty Pinot Noir is a perfect bistro-style red, with notes of wild cherries, earth, and mushrooms. Serve with a well-seasoned skirt steak or grilled sirloin tips.

Grand Ormeau Lalande de Pomerol 2011
This Merlot-based red from Bordeaux’s right bank is at its peak drinking window today, with smooth tannins, subtle earthiness, and notes of woods and spice. Serve with filet mignon or tenderloin.

Michel Gros Hautes-Côtes de Nuits 2015
This everyday Pinot Noir shows far more Burgundian elegance than its origin suggests. Look for notes of violets, raspberry, minerals, and toast; serve with NY strip steaks.

 

____________________________

Steak Pairing Sampler

Ansonia Retail: $324
sampler price : $285/case

 

Add to Cart



FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES

 

 

Posted on

Perfect Everyday Côtes-du-Rhône: $14.95

Côtes du Rhône is one of the world’s most widely recognizable wine brands. There’s a wide range of styles out there, and we have favorites in many camps. For rustic and rugged we like the Domaine les Goubert. For refined and serious, we like the Domaine Malmont. But for easygoing, fruit-forward, and effortlessly drinkable, it’s hard to beat the Domaine Coulange.

Coulange’s Côtes du Rhône is named “Mistral” for the strong northwesterly wind that blows through Provence. The wind is a blessing to winemakers, drying their grapes and keeping their vineyards healthy. We’re excited to have this old favorite back in stock.

 

 

Winemaker Christelle Coulange returned to the family property after oenology school and began to make and bottle her own wine (previously the family sold in bulk). In only a decade she has made quite a name for herself. She seems to win gold or silver at Côtes du Rhône tastings every year — the 2015 offered today took the gold at the Gilbert & Gaillard International Concours in 2016.

The 2015 Mistral is delightful, an unoaked blend of 80% grenache and 20% syrah. The nose shows violets, wild cherry jam, and garrigue (provençal underbrush), with woodsy and briary notes as it develops in the glass. The mouth is dense and smooth, with a rich, vibrant mouthfeel, very smooth tannins and a clean finish. It’s not serious or complex, but for a weekday evening it’s everything you need.

 

 

____________________________

Coulange Mistral 2015

Ansonia Retail: $19
6+ bottle price : $14.95/bot

 

Add to Cart



FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES

 

 

Posted on

Crisp and Refreshing: Weeknight White Burgundy. $5/glass

White Burgundy is among the food-friendliest wines around. It’s possible to go really specific with the pairing — match a perfectly aged Meursault, open for an hour, with veal medallions in just the right amount cream, a hint of lemon, carefully sauteed mushrooms, a sprig of parsley… you get the idea.

But other times we want a white Burgundy that’s uncomplicated and reliable — for a Monday night pasta dish, or a hearty bowl of mussels. Gerard Thomas’s Bourgogne blanc has been our go-to white burgundy for nearly a decade now. It has become a “house white” for many of our readers, and for a number of well known restaurants in Boston and Philadelphia as well.

It doesn’t make Meursault promises — but it way over delivers for $5/glass.

We’ve just restocked on the excellent 2015 Bourgogne. From an unusually ripe year, the 2015 Bourgogne blanc is richer and denser than usual. The nose is soft and elegant, with hazelnut and wood notes melting into lemon and baked apple fruit. There’s plenty of acidity and plenty of body, and it’s more mouthfilling than much Bourgogne at its level.

We strongly recommend setting aside a night for a high-end white Burgundy. Meursault, Chassagne, Puligny — even Thomas’s exceptional St-Aubins (coming later this week) — these can be some of the most rewarding wines you’ll open. But for a busy weeknight when all you need is something balanced and crisp and refreshing, this is as good as a catch-all white Burgundy can get.

 

 

____________________________

Thomas Bourgogne 2015

Ansonia Retail: $30
6+ bottle price : $25/bot

 

Add to Cart



FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES

 

 

Posted on

“Outstanding Richness”: More Delicious 2015 Burgundy from Michel Gros

Much like Volnay and Pommard we wrote about recently, Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-St-Georges are neighboring towns with opposing characters. Vosne tends towards elegance, finesse, and spice; Nuits towards richness, more structure, and bolder flavors. In the hands of a talented winemaker, both can be superb.

Today’s wine not only comes from a supremely talented winemaker, but from an outstanding vintage and an exceptionally well-located plot. Michel Gros’s Nuits-St-Georges comes mostly from vineyards lying on the Nuits-Vosne border. The resulting wine shows a splash of the violets and spice for which Vosne is so prized, but beneath that nose a classic Nuits mouth.

This is always one of our favorite cuvées at Gros, and in 2015 it’s exceptionally good.

Michel Gros’s 2015s are excellent across the board — from his Hautes-Côtes de Nuits all the way up to Grand Cru Clos Vougeot. (You can browse all we have in stock here.) They exhibit the vintage’s signature smooth ripe fruit, but alsoh Michel’s classic toasty woodsiness.

Gros’s Nuits-St-Georges 2015 is delightful today, and should develop for as long as you can keep your hands off it. Burghound awarded 91 points, finding “outstanding richness,” and “concentrated and muscular flavors,” such as “berries, plum, earth, and forest floor.” To this we’d highlight notes of cinnamon and dark flowers, and a bold but silky mouthfeel.

We decant this for an hour or more to soften the tannins, though we’ll admit at taking a quick sip or two as it went in. Don’t let too many others sniff it, or there may not be enough to go into the carafe.

 

 

____________________________

Michel Gros Nuits-St-Georges 2015

Ansonia Retail: $78
3+ bottle price : $69/bot

 

Add to Cart



FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES