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“Bold” Red Burgundy: 100-year-old Vines, 93 points, $25.

Beaujolais is the source of plenty of uninteresting wine. Fully a third of the region’s production is the Beaujolais Nouveau, an insipid red rushed to market a month after harvest. But the region contains many undervalued wines, some in the same class of top wines from the north of Burgundy.

No Beaujolais source has more impressed us than Laurent Perrachon. From meticulously cultivated old vines and careful use of oak, Perrachon creates remarkably delicious and refined red Burgundies. We’re not the only ones to notice; the domaine is among the only Beaujolais producers reviewed (and praised) by both Josh Raynolds (Vinous) and Allen Meadows (Burghound).

These are honest, complex, delicious red Burgundies; they just happen to be made from Gamay.

 

 

Perrachon’s Juliénas “Vignes Centenaires” comes from vines planted more than a century ago. Perfectly extracted and carefully aged in oak barrels, this wine shows a dark, brooding nose of anise and blackberries. Burghound was effusive, awarding 93 points, finding “dark berry,” “spice” and “incense,” calling it “delicious, velvety and caressing.”

If you like Beaujolais for its fruity, carefree character, this might not be your cup of tea. Perrachon’s 2015 Juliénas is dense, rich, and exceptionally long, with far more stuffing than you find in most $35 Pinots from Santenay or Maranges. The tannins are juicy and silky but sturdy, meaning this should develop easily for another 5-8 years.

This wine has many happy days in front of it. But with a hearty meal, a carafe, and a few enthusiastic friends, this bottle is a stunner. Don’t mention it’s Gamay, and nobody will guess.

 

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Perrachon Juliénas “Centenaires” 2015

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Good luck keeping your hands off this one: Premier Cru 2015 Red Burgundy.

Morey-St-Denis sits in the shadow of its two more famous neighbors, Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin. But to ignore its terroir would be a mistake. Wines from Morey are often described as “Burgundy lover’s wines” — their elegant, lace-like textures blend effortlessly with beautiful, clean fruit.

Brothers Didier and Jean-Louis Amiot make some of our favorite wines from Morey-St-Denis. Their domaine is right on the main street in the village, and their cuvées come with small quantities and, for the Côte de Nuits at least, reasonable price tags.

The Amiots’ style has shifted in recent years, and they’ve begun to make wines that drink better earlier. Combine that with the 2015s’ delicious early-drinking fruit, and you’ll find it hard to keep your hands off these wines. But you’ll thank us in a few years if you do.

 

 

As the name suggests, Amiot’s 2015 Morey-St-Denis 1er cru “Aux Charmes” is charming. Large volume wine this is not — Amiot’s plot is just one acre, and their 50 year old vines produce only 200 cases per year. But the quality is simply exceptional.

Charmes is usually the first of Amiot’s premier crus to drink well, and though this should age gracefully for a decade or two, it’s already beautiful. Today the nose is very expressive, showing earthy tones mixed with woodsmoke and briary fruit. The mouth is long, silky, and very rich — the tannins are young but perfectly sculpted, with no dryness or bitterness.

Burghound also noted that the wine “should drink well young,” finding “fine richness” and calling the mouthfeel “supple and caressing.” Leaving this wine at the back of your cellar for a while will reward you handsomely. But fair warning — if an open bottle appears on your table in the next few months, you may need a bit more for the cellar.

 

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Amiot Morey-St-Denis 1er “Aux Charmes” 2015

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2016 Old-Vine Beaujolais: “For Drinking, Not Contemplating.” $19

We work with many winemakers with low profiles, but Jean-Marc Monnet might be the least visible. He has no roadside, no website, and no other American importer. We’ve gotten lost trying to find his domaine two years in a row. Jean-Marc himself is as humble as his winery is hidden, but the wines themselves are a wholly different story.

Beaujolais has long been known for its unserious wines — over-marketed and under-cared-for. But Monnet’s Beaujolais has the complexity of a very good Côte d’Or Bourgogne and the density of a Northern Rhône syrah. 2016 was a low yield year for the Beaujolais — hail and frosts damaged much of the crop. But what the vintage lacks in quantity it more than makes up for in quality.

Monnet’s reds are intense and perfectly extracted — the fruit is almost teeth-stainingly dense, but with no hint of bitterness. They look and feel like syrah in the mouth, but the fruit is red and juicy.

Monnet’s Juliénas Vieilles Vignes is like his other wines, but more so. From 50+ year old vines and a ripe vintage, the density is exceptional. The color is inky purple, with a dark nose showing raspberry and pure wild cherry. The mouthfeel is intense and smooth with a long, dense finish of cranberry, minerals and violets. This is delicious, and as Jancis Robinson puts it, “meant to be drunk, not contemplated.”

 

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Monnet Juliénas Vieilles Vignes 2016

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2015 Côte de Nuits Red Burgundy: Earth and Cassis

The Domaine Ravaut is the ultimate local wine source. For 120 years the family has cultivated a loyal clientele of friends, neighbors, and workers at the stone quarry in the hamlet of Ladoix. Though they have expanded their reach in recent years, they still sell more than half of their wine to folks who walk in the front door.

The winemaker today is Vincent Ravaut, a friendly, thirtysomething son who has mastered cellar work. His diligence and careful attention during vinification and aging results in wines of perfect balance. Ravaut’s 2015s have all the clean precision we’ve come to appreciate, plus unusually complex and ripe fruit.

 

 

Today we’re suggesting Ravaut’s 2015 Côte de Nuits Villages, from vines near the border with the Côte de Beaune. The 2015 is succulent and juicy, with bursting tannins and dark, pure fruit. Think the joie-de-vivre of a Cru Beaujolais with the refinement and class of Pinot Noir. Jancis Robinson agreed, finding it “robust” with a “fine, chalky texture” and “excellent freshness.”

Like most of the 2015 red Burgundies, this is a delightful, refreshing glass on its own. The nose shows raspberry jam, graphite, and cassis — it’s a seductive and utterly pleasant bouquet. But the ripe tannins are an excellent match for food, with notes of plum and earth on a persistent, lively finish. Serve this with a roast chicken on a Sunday afternoon.

 

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Ravaut Côte de Nuits-Villages 2015

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Inky Syrah, Wild Yeasts, and the Purest Form of Winemaking. $25

Winemaking began in the Languedoc around 125 BC, and over the last two millennia, little has changed in the basic chemistry. Though the last century saw the advent of new chemicals and measurements, winemaking is still the combination of grapes, yeast, and time.

The winemakers at the Mas Foulaquier return to this simple alchemy. Their pesticide-free vineyards are archetypes of polyculture, with wildflowers and insects at home amid the rows of vines. And it’s from these vibrant vineyards that the winemakers obtain both elements of the winemaking process — untreated grapes from the vines, and wild yeasts from the skins and ambient air.

This is winemaking in its purest, most original form, and the results are wines of remarkable complexity and grace.

 

 

Winemaking without much vineyard treatment or controlled yeast strains is not easy, and the results can be variable. But the winemakers at Foulaquier are deeply dedicated to their craft and their wines are proof that hard work and care pay off. These are some of the finest biodynamic wines we import.

Today we’re suggesting Foulaquier’s “Calades” a syrah-dominant wine of a beautiful dark, inky hue. In the nose this wine could almost be mistaken for a Northern Rhône Syrah, with the grape’s signature black pepper, blackberry, and dark chocolate. But in the mouth this is unmistakably Foulaquier — a symphony of cool, earthy, jammy notes like plum and lavender — at once mouthfilling and balanced.

This wine perfectly captures the northern Languedoc’s ruggedly beautiful landscape, a blend of silky elegance and rustic earthiness.

 

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Foulaquier Calades 2014

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Delicious New Premier Cru 2015 Red Burgundy: 91 Points, “Intense and “Vibrant”

The 2015 red Burgundies are nothing short of a sensation. After months of hype and a frenzy of enthusiasm upon release, they’ve lived up to nearly all of their acclaim. With sturdy tannins suggesting long and happy lives, the wines also offer near-term hedonistic delight — the best are juicy, lively, and, as the French say, gouleyant (gulpable).

No domaine’s wines better capture the tension between ageworthiness and drinkability than those of Roger Belland. The house style is always fruit forward — ripe, punchy, juicy mouthfeels are consistent from one year to another. But even for Belland, their 2015s offer unusually pleasant early drinking.

In our fast-paced world, cellaring wine has become increasingly rare. But with Belland’s wines, there’s no wrong answer — they are delicious now, and will be even more so in 5 years.

 

 

Master of Wine Clive Coates called Roger Belland “one of the best sources in the village” of Santenay. Though it’s often an afterthought on Côte d’Or maps, Belland’s wines are proof that Santenay can be classic, majestic red Burgundy.

Belland’s finest premier cru Santenay is from the “la Comme” vineyard, just on the northern border with Chassagne-Montrachet. This is Santenay at its most elegant, combining the silky precision of a Volnay with the vibrant character of red Chassagne — think minerals, dried cherries, plum, and herbs. Burghound awarded 91 points, finding it “elegant” and “harmonious,” with “pretty floral nuance,” and “delicious, intense and vibrant flavors.”

Belland’s wines are so drinkable from the start that they’re hard to age — our last bottle, opened 4-5 years after harvest, is often the best of the batch. If you’ve got the cellar space, put down half a case and drink the other six this year. Life is short, after all.

 

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Belland Santenay 1er cru “la Comme” 2015

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Your New House Red: Everyday Organic Chianti. $18

We often recommend wines intended for a specific time or place. A carefully aged Burgundy for a Christmas roast; a stony Chablis for a plate of summer oysters — a precise wine pairing for a dish or setting can elevate both.

But wine should also be a reliable part of an ordinary dinner. We like to keep such “house wines” around — versatile, crowd pleasing bottles you can reach for without much thought. White Burgundies are usually our go-to for whites; and last week’s Côtes du Rhône is an excellent everyday red.

But for some geographic diversity, we’re hard-pressed to find someone that doesn’t enjoy the Fattoria Poggerino’s simplest wine: Il Labirinto.

 

 

Poggerino splits the Chianti Classico vines into older and younger parcels, bottling the former as “Chianti Classico” and the latter as “Il Labirinto”. The 2014 Classico, which will arrive in a month or so, is excellent. But Labirinto is vat raised and released earlier, and the 2014 is in stock and delicious. Labirinto’s “young” vines are now 35-years old, making this a Classico-quality wine that is an astounding bargain for the price.

The Labirinto 2014’s nose is very ripe and juicy, with plum and sweet cherry notes. The mouth is earthy, and vibrant, with sturdy tannins sanded down after a few years in the bottle, forming a smooth patina of fruit jam. Jancis Robinson calls the 2014 “round and fresh” and “very authentic” with “masses of ripe fruit.”

This is lively and pleasantly drinkable on its own, but like most wines, it’s best enjoyed with the other fruits of its home terroir. Try a homemade pizza (good recipe for the dough here) or a pasta with a tomato based sauce.

 

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Poggerino Labirinto 2014

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Exquisite 95-Point 2015 Côte Rôtie: Old Vines, Legendary Terroir, “Superb”

Christophe Bonnefond is a quiet man. Our tastings with him each year are pleasant and friendly, but he’s not what you’d call a “talker”. He’s happy to answer questions, but rarely volunteers information, preferring to let his wines speak for themselves.

His wines are anything but quiet. They’re dense, concentrated, and immaculately crafted — pure syrah in its most powerful and impressive form. Bonnefond’s finest two parcels are located on either side of “La Landonne,” the legendary vineyard on the famous slopes of the Côte Rôtie.

Today we’re suggesting Bonnefond’s 2015 Côte Rôtie “Les Rochains.” It’s a magnificent wine — an extraordinary vintage, 50-75 year old vines, and an intense winemaker style. This is Northern Rhône syrah at its finest — inky black fruits, a lingering mouthfeel, and all at 13% alcohol.

 

 

Bonnefond’s Côte Rôties age marvelously — we’ve had them 10 and 15 years out and they’re simply delicious. Today this wine shows red cherries, licorice, black pepper, cloves, and leather — in a decade or two it will add earthy, woodsy notes along with iodine, soy, and dried flowers.

Vinous’s Josh Raynolds called this “densely packed yet elegant,” a phrase we think perfectly distills the wine’s essence. He awarded 93-95 points, finding the nose “expansive,” and “exotically perfumed” with “black and blue fruits, violet, woodsmoke and olive.”

Put this in the back of our cellar and you’ll call us in 15 years to ask why you didn’t buy more. Open one today with a decanter, and you’ll call us next week to see how much we have left.

 

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Bonnefond Côte Rôtie “Les Rochains” 2015

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The Perfect Everyday Côtes-du-Rhône. $15

For a crowd-pleasing red, it’s hard to beat Côtes du Rhône. Guests with New World leanings will appreciate the richness and full flavor. Those with Old World inclinations will appreciate the balance and style. It’s a wine nearly everyone will enjoy without too much thought.

Most Rhône Valley vignerons make a Côtes du Rhône alongside their other wines, and the Domaine les Goubert is no exception. Well known for their Gigondas and Gigondas “Cuvée Florence,” Goubert’s star continues to rise as the family’s 30-something daughter Florence Cartier takes over more winemaking responsibilities.

Goubert’s wine has always been good, but with Florence at the helm it seems to get better every year.

 

 

We think a Côtes du Rhône should be three things: inexpensive, dark, and well balanced. Goubert’s Côtes du Rhône fits this description nicely. It’s relatively low in alcohol, which keeps it fresh and lively on the palate. Six grapes — Terret Noir, Picpoul, and Vaccarèse with the familiar Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan — form a hearty dark wine. And finally, a Côtes du Rhône should be inexpensive enough to pull out at a moment’s notice: at $15/bot, this is a wine to enjoy without planning.

It’s a by-the-glass wine for your kitchen, something to enjoy during the preparation and enjoyment of a meal. Goubert’s Côtes du Rhône is very expressive, showing dark wild cherries, raspberries, and a hint of minerality. The mouth is both jammy and refreshing, with notes of white pepper, licorice, and plums.

Serve this with anything from hamburgers to our favorite pasta: oil, garlic, red pepper flakes, and ample grated parmesan.

 

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Goubert Côtes-du-Rhône 2016

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The Best Value in White Burgundy.

We find some of our favorite values in towns just off the beaten path. The neighbor villages of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet are the world’s best known sources for fine white wine. But just two miles to the west lies the often-overlooked town of Saint-Aubin, which turns out to be an exceptional source for value in white Burgundy.

The Thomas family has an intimate knowledge of the terroir of St-Aubin, where they’ve lived and made wine for over 70 years. Together with his two daughters, Gérard makes understated, highly affordable wines that are consistently delicious. They’re usually too drinkable to last very long in our cellars, but we managed to forget about a few cases of the 2013. It’s just beautiful today.

 

 

The 2013 St-Aubin “Champ Tirant” is a pure expression of a single terroir. A few years in the bottle has given it an impressive grace and poise. The nose shows delicate yellow fruits and muted toasty notes like baked lemon and almond. The mouth retains enough freshness to help pair it beautifully with food, but enough richness and stuffing to make it drink like a far pricier wine.

Food pairings for white Burgundy are easy. According to Sommelier Rajat Parr, who calls St-Aubin a source “for some of the best-value Chardonnay in the world,” white Burgundy pairs best “with oilier and meatier poached fish like halibut, salmon, monkfish, cod and grouper.” Monkfish is a particular favorite at our house, particularly Thomas Keller’s Roasted Monkfish with butter and rosemary.

We also love this with whole roasted chicken. Cook the bird with rosemary, lemon, and garlic, and enjoy the smells from the kitchen as they meld into the aromas from the glass.

 

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Thomas St-Aubin 2013

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New St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé: Bold, Assertive, Delicious.

Named for an 8th century Breton hermit monk, the medieval town of St-Emilion has long been a center for winemaking. Viticulture there dates to at least 275 AD, when Roman soldiers cleared the local forest and replaced it with vines.

Today Saint-Emilion and its neighbor Pomerol dominate the right bank of Bordeaux’s bifurcated winegrowing region. The wines here are Merlot-based, often blended with Cabernet Franc. The pace and scale of the right bank resembles Burgundy more than the large producers of Bordeaux’s left bank, and some generous Saint-Emilion makes a great addition to our Burgundy-dominated cellars.

 

 

For many years now our source for classic Saint-Emilion has been the Chateaux Destieux and Montlisse, the projects of biopharma-exec-turned-winemaker Christian Dauriac. Montlisse, a Grand Cru, is a delicious wine at an approachable price. (See Montlisse 2014.) But for special occasions, the Grand Cru Classé Destieux is a noticeable and impressive step up.

The 2014 Destieux is bold and rich — it’s not a wine you forget about while drinking. Decanter Magazine found “Dense, ripe plummy fruit. Slightly jammy aspect. Long and firmly structured.” We found notes of plums, cedar, licorice and leather. Decant an hour or so before serving, and pair it with a rich stew or a fine cut of beef. Subtle this is not; delicious it is.

 

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Destieux Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 2014

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New Gevrey-Chambertin Monopole: “Lavishly Rich,” “Suave,” and “Velvety”

Most things in Burgundy are old. Ancient walls and Roman paths wind across the landscape of vines; houses built a hundred years ago are considered new. And the people of the region have practiced viticulture here since long before it was called Burgundy.

Even by Burgundian standards, the Domaine des Varoilles is old. The domaine’s vineyards date to the 1100s, with further mentions in local records from 1272, 1319, and 1329. It’s under recent ownership — that of Swiss national Gilbert Hammel since 1990 — that the domaine’s star has really risen.

The domaine’s vines are nearly all in Gevrey-Chambertin, a town known for the densest, meatiest wines in Burgundy. And the Varoilles style features relatively late harvests, ripe fruits, and plenty of extraction. The resulting wines are rich, seductive, and awfully easy to enjoy.

 

 

Last month we wrote about Varoilles Premier Cru Gevrey-Chambertin “Clos des Varoilles” from 2012 — an intense, meaty Gevrey-Chambertin with excellent aging potential. Today’s wine is a 2014 from their village level vineyard monopole “Clos du Meix des Ouches.” The walls of the clos and its clay-rich soils combine to make an unusually rich village level-wine.

Burghound loved the domaine’s 2014s, calling this cuvée “lavishly rich,” and “velvety,” with “excellent volume” and predicting it would “drink well young.” Today the 2014 Gevrey has an exceptional nose — there’s mocha, raspberry, gingerbread, and cinnamon. The mouth is pleasant and dark, with clean tannins that soften after an hour or so in a glass or decanter.

With their centuries of history Varoilles can hardly be called a discovery. But it’s wines like this that make us excited to have them in our portfolio.

 

 

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Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin “Clos du Meix des Ouches” 2014

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Crisp, Refreshing Aligoté: Your New Everyday White Burgundy. $19

In Burgundy, nearly all white wines are pure Chardonnay. The primary exception to the rule is Aligoté, a less prestigious varietal that nonetheless accounts for over 10% of white vines in Burgundy. It’s a traditional Burgundian grape that makes simple, refreshing wines meant for enjoying, not contemplating.

If grown in a poor location, Aligoté can turn out thin wines with lots of acidity and little else. But in the right soils and in the hands of capable winemakers, the result can be really quite interesting. Many readers have recently enjoyed the Aligoté from Boyer-Martenot in Meursault — so much, in fact, that we’re out. (See January Futures for the Boyer’s 2016 Aligoté.) But in the meantime we’re excited to introduce a second — the 2015 Aligoté from the Domaine Ravaut.

 

 

The Ravaut’s Aligoté succeeds for three reasons. First: location. Grown just north of the famous Hill of Corton, their plot boasts well situated soils rich with clay and limestone. Second: malolactic fermentation. This secondary fermentation helps round out the sometimes sharp edges of the grape. Third: lees contact. Ravaut’s Aligoté spends a year on the lees before bottling, adding depth and complexity.

Ravaut’s 2015 Aligoté closely resembles a Chardonnay in the nose — think green apple, lemon peel, honey, and grass. The mouth is bright and crisp, like a Chardonnay from an energetic year. Look for notes of grapefruit, lime, and chalk in the mouth. It’s a great candidate for the traditional pairing with Crème de Cassis (called a Kir), but the liqueur isn’t a must for this wine.

Don’t get us wrong — Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru this is not. It’s not even Ravaut’s Ladoix blanc. But for a refreshing, inexpensive, well-made wine you can reach for at any time, consider the new Aligoté.

 

 

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Ravaut Aligoté 2015

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Rich, Lively, and Smooth: New Côtes du Rhône from a Rising Star.

Côtes-du-Rhônes are a dime a dozen these days. From bistro chalkboards in Paris to Whole Foods to the drugstore checkout counter, it’s one of the most recognizable brands in the wine world. And as you might expect, not all Côtes-du-Rhônes are created equal.

Among our very favorites is the Domaine Malmont’s version from Séguret. Malmont’s Côtes-du-Rhône is unique and delicious — richer and far more interesting than the vast majority of other bottles in its category. It owes its distinctiveness to an unusually high percentage of syrah (60%), which contributes dark berry and black pepper notes, and keeps the wine lively and fresh.

Where many Côtes du Rhônes are flat and full of overripe fruit, Malmont’s is cool and crisp, with pleasant tannins and a long, balanced finish. It’s a few bucks more than the mass-market version, but the quality is easily twice as good.

 

 

Malmont is the project of Nicolas Haeni, a young Swiss winemaker who founded the domaine nearly a decade ago. His grapes grow on terraced vineyards in the hills above Séguret, and his wines already have wide acclaim from the international wine press. The his 2016 Côtes du Rhône is excellent — Haeni calls it a “baby Séguret,” referring to its similarity to his fancier cuvée.

Though it’s not raised in oak, there’s a pleasant note of toastiness in this wine. Look for notes of plum jam, lavender and thyme, presented with a round but lively mouthfeel. The ubiquity of Côtes du Rhône means it’s also a crowd pleaser, particularly on a snowy evening in January. This develops nicely over an hour in the glass, and even stretches nicely from one day to the next.

Côtes du Rhônes aren’t meant to be overthought, but this one provides far more complexity than the usual.

 

 

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Malmont Côtes du Rhône 2016

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Juicy, Bursting, Gulpable 2015 Red Burgundy. $28

Many of our winemakers are multi-generational. Some stretch back for centuries, others are more recent père et fils (or fille) operations. At their best they maintain a family’s hard won knowledge of its land.

We’re always slightly apprehensive when a new generation takes over. Some try too hard to make their mark early, changing styles and abandoning longtime traditions. But at many domaines the younger generation arrives with modern techniques and a new energy.

Gautier Desvignes is in the latter category. In a few short years he’s transformed his quaint family domaine from traditional rustic Givry into some of the most popular wines in our cellar. The 2015s in particular are refined, complex, and simply delightful.

 

 

In 2015 Gautier split his plot of village level Givry into two cuvées. We released the first last month — the “Meix au Roy” — a rugged, mouthfilling, lively Pinot Noir. For the second cuvée, Gautier removed some leaves from the vines over the summer, allowing the sun to raise the phenolic ripeness of the grapes.

The result is an extra-ripe cuvée, with juicy fruit and smooth, velvety texture. It’s riper and fuller than the Meix, with punchier tannin and a longer finish. This is Burgundy at it’s juiciest — with the sun soaked exuberance of Beaujolais and the dark fruit of the Côte d’Or.

Fair warning — once open, particularly in a crowd, this wine evaporates promptly.

 

 

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Desvignes Givry “Champ la Dame” 2015

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