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Crisp, Refreshing New Rosé for August. $16

August.  There’s a lot of rosé around these days. We’ve been fans for years, and we’re thrilled to see it enjoying some time in the spotlight. Rosé is proof that simpler wines have their time and place — sometimes the best wine for the moment isn’t the best wine in your cellar.

To us, Rosé should be three things: dry, refreshing, and low in alcohol. Most of our favorite rosés are in the provencal style, made in the South of France under brilliant blue skies. But we can’t leave out the Pinot Noir rosé from Francis Muré, a bright, energetic wine from the rolling hills of Alsace. His 2016 has just arrived in our warehouse, in time for the hottest month of the year.

 


Dry.  
Francis Muré makes most of his Pinot Noir into a delicious red wine (look for the 2016 in a few weeks). The rest he turns into a lively rosé that captures the bright sun and refreshing breeze of an Alsatian summer. It’s not complex or weighty — just clean, crisp, and dry. Like Muré himself, it’s humble, honest, and charming.

The 2016 is among the best we can remember — lively mouthfeel, perfectly clean strawberry fruit, and delightfully crisp, dry finish. At 12.5% alcohol it’s refreshing and light. Whether you spend this month on vacation by the coast, or dashing between air conditioned rooms at the office and home, Muré’s 2016 is the perfect antidote to a muggy August.

 

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Muré Rosé 2016

Ansonia Retail: $20
6+ bottle price : $16/bot

 

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Mixed Case: Minerality Sampler

The wine world loves the word “minerality,” but no one can quite define it. Wine writer Lettie Teague calls it “a helpful word to describe wines that aren’t fruity, spicy, or herbal.” We think of it as refreshing element in a wine that doesn’t come from acidity, but we too struggle to offer an exact meaning.

Our best suggestion for defining minerality? These four wines. Whatever it is, these have it; and whatever it is, it’s particularly attractive in the summer heat. We’ve collected four wines, from Chablis, Pouilly-Fumé, and Muscadet, all sporting a crisp, elegant mineral note. You don’t have to drink them before the Fall — wines with minerality drink well year round — but these are unlikely to be in your cellar for long.

 

 

 

MICHOT Pouilly-Fumé VV 2016
This is pure Sauvignon Blanc, grown in soils full of flint and limestone. The nose shows grapefruit and smoke, and the mouth is long, smooth, and very lively.

GAUTHERON Chablis 1er cru “Vaucoupin” 2015
This premier cru Chablis is pure unoaked Chardonnay, grown in the fossil-rich Kimmeridgean soils of Chablis. Look for lemon zest and stones, with an elegant, very clean finish.

MARTIN-LUNEAU Muscadet “Gorges” 2013
Muscadet is near the mouth of the Loire River — the grape is Melon de Bourgogne. This very dry wine shows melon, dried spring flowers, and salt air.

COLLET Chablis 1er cru “Montée de Tonnerre” 2015
Montée de Tonnerre is the finest premier cru in Chablis, producing wines of high elegance and class. This cuvée is raised in a bit of oak, but the underlying minerality shines through beautifully.

 

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Mixed Case: Minerality Sampler

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Golden, Floral, Opulent: 2014 Premier Cru Chassagne-Montrachet.

Neighbors.  The hillside of Montrachet produces the world’s finest dry white wine. In production for nearly two thousand years, the vineyard straddles the border between the towns of Puligny and Chassagne. Each produces wine of a different character, and though their terroirs meet in the famous plot, there are genuine differences in the extraordinary wines from both villages.

Puligny tends to be a bit more buttoned up — more austere in its youth, with acidity and minerality that help it cellar well. Chassagne is usually a bit friendlier, with a fleshier mouthfeel and more floral character. Both can be exceptional, but Chassagne usually matures before Puligny. Today’s cuvée is a premier cru from Chassagne’s southern border, and one you don’t need to wait for to enjoy.

 

 

Vintage.  Roger Belland knows the terroir of Chassagne intimately. He’s the fifth generation winemaker in his family, and he makes wine on both sides of the Montrachet border. Today we offer his Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru Monopole “Clos Pitois” 2014, a classic, golden, mouthfilling white Burgundy. The Belland family owns the entire vineyard — unusual in Burgundy, where most vineyards are split among several owners.

This wine is everything Chassagne-Montrachet is supposed to be. The nose is explosive and opulent, with coconut, flowers, butter, and honeysuckle — your nose will pick them up while the glass is still several inches away. On the palate it is long, rich, and vibrant, with notes of sweet lemons, hazelnut, and toast.

There’s nothing quite like the Grand Cru Montrachet, but if you can find one, a bottle requires substantial investment. If you’ve ever wondered what has drawn people to this terroir for centuries, here’s a slightly more reasonable way to find out.

 

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Belland Chassagne-Montrachet
1er cru “Clos Pitois” 2014

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140-Year-Old Vines and Extraordinary Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Organic.  Jacqueline André is unusually passionate about her vines. She refers to one plot of grenache planted in 1877 as her grandes dames; they were a gift from her grandfather, and today she treats them with extreme care and affection. The ancient rows are hardly straight, but the fruit they produce is of the highest quality.

The André domaine stopped using chemicals to treat their vines in 1963, and became the region’s first certified organic domaine in 1980. “If all we eat is fast food,” she explained during our visit a few months ago, “our bodies don’t do so well. It’s the same with vines — the better care they’re given, the longer they live.”

It’s a commonplace these days to say that the wine is made in the vineyard rather than the winery, but at the Domaine André it is the focus of every day’s work.

 

 

Smooth.  And the wines? In a word, they’re exceptional. André makes only one white and one red per year, focusing all her attention on meticulous detail of the winemaking process. The result is wine with extraordinary finesse and clarity. They’re as complex and rich as classic Châteauneuf, but with a subtlety and grace usually only found in Burgundy and Bordeaux.

The best word to sum up André’s 2013 Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge is refined. The nose is clear and very pure, showing intense red cherries, lavender, and pan drippings. The mouth is perfectly integrated with a smooth and fleshy mouthfeel, firm but pleasant tannins, and a long silky finish.

We don’t often run into things that date to the administration of Ulysses S. Grant, let alone ones that produce wine of this caliber. Modernity has its place, but as this wine shows, tradition has its own triumphs.

 

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André Châteauneuf-du-Pape red 2013

Ansonia Retail: $60
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Pouilly-Fumé Returns: New Crisp Sauvignon Blanc. $19

Discovery.  Sauvignon Blanc has seen a recent surge in popularity. It’s hard to find a wine list these days without examples from New Zealand, California and Washington. But the original source for Sauvignon Blanc is France’s Loire Valley, where the grape (known there simply as “Sauvignon”) has been grown since the 1700s.

The twin villages of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are the home towns of Sauvignon. Here the grape takes on a distinctly mineral and citrus character. As the name suggests, the wines of Pouilly-Fumé also feature notes of smoke and gunflint, a result of the soils’ high flint content.

Our producer here is Frederic Michot, a small scale family vigneron with no other US importer and excellent wines. His two 2016 cuvées have just arrived in our warehouse, and both are just as good as the 2015s we sold out of so quickly last year.

 

 

Dry and fresh. Michot’s 2016 Pouilly-Fumé is crisp and delicious — the nose is bright and expressive, with ripe grapefruit, honey, and lime. The mouth is full and very lively. There’s no oak at all, and the palate sings with zippy fruit and minerals. The palate is midweight and very clean, with a dry, slightly smoky finish.

This is pure, unoaked, refreshing Sauvignon Blanc — perfect as an aperitif or next to a plate of fish. This should be a welcome opener for house guests through the end of the summer and into fall. Our favorite combination is goat cheese, another famous product of the Loire Valley. Everything from Crottin de Chavignol to Valençay to a simple fresh chèvre will fit beautifully with this lively Pouilly-Fumé.

 

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Michot Pouilly-Fumé 2016

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$22 Unoaked White Burgundy: Honeysuckle and Lemon

Ancient.  The monks of the Burgundy countryside play a crucial role in the story of French winemaking. For about a thousand years between the 5th and 15th centuries, French monks tended vines and made wine on the now famous slopes. Through tasting the products of the rich Burgundian soils (and often the soils themselves), they first developed the idea of terroir.

In the south of Burgundy, winemaking culture centered around the Abbaye de Cluny, a wealthy monastery near Macon. Much of Cluny’s wealth and fame came from the delicious product of the local vineyards. And it is from these vineyards, now in production for over 1100 years, that today’s wine comes.

 

 

France profonde.  Nicolas Maillet is a passionate young winemaker working in the heart of the Maconnais. His wines are as pure an expression of the Chardonnay grape as we know, with no oak to obscure the gorgeous fruit. They have the clarity of fine Chablis with the weight and roundness of a Côte d’or Chardonnay. Grown a few miles from the famous Cluny Abbey, this is as traditional as white Burgundy gets.

The nose of the 2015 Maillet Macon Villages is expressive and beautiful. Look for spring flowers and honeysuckle, with faint notes of dried straw. In the mouth it’s a classic Macon — rich and full with bright floral notes, beautiful acidity, and lots of depth. For white Burgundy fans, this is a remarkable value — far more complexity than the price tag suggests.

Pair this with mussels or roast chicken, or a quiet summer’s afternoon.

 

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Maillet Macon-Villages 2015

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New $25 Right-Bank Bordeaux: Plummy, Rich, and Smooth

Harmony.  Over thousands of years the monks and farmers of France experimented with different grapes to find the varietals that best fit their land. The grape-place pairings were settled centuries ago, and now the happy marriages — Syrah in the Northern Rhône, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in Burgundy, Sauvignon Blanc in Sancerre — produce many of the world’s finest expressions of each varietal.

And so it is with Merlot and Bordeaux. Sideways notwithstanding, Merlot has always played a starring role in the finest wines of Bordeaux, particularly on the Right Bank’s famous towns of Pomerol and St-Emilion. The combination of limestone and clay soils, excellent drainage, and early ripening makes Merlot unique and delicious there.

 

 

 

Friendly.  Today we’re excited to introduce a new all-Merlot wine from Bordeaux’s Right Bank. The appellation is Montagne-St-Emilion, a more humble neighbor of St-Emilion (think JV vs. Varsity). At their best the wines are classic, plummy expressions of the terroir, without quite the same complexity or aging potential. In short, they’re uncomplicated, friendly, drink-now red Bordeaux.

The 2014 Montange-St-Emilion from Vieux Château Goujon is dark and rich — tannins are ripe and very full, with no bitterness and a juicy mouthfilling texture. The nose shows cherry jam, cedar, and a hint of black pepper. This is expertly balanced — at only 13% alcohol, there’s a nice equilibrium between the soft Merlot fruit and the ripe juicy tannins.

This isn’t a Bordeaux to cellar for decades — it’s a delicious, easily pairable, affordable red Bordeaux to enjoy today.

 

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Vieux Goujon Montagne-St-Emilion 2014

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Crisp, Bursting, Refreshing New Sancerre. $25

Muggy.  In midst of the summer heat, we like to open wines that don’t require much thought. Not wines that are boring or one dimensional, just uncomplicated and highly drinkable. Which is why we’re so excited about our brand new Sancerre.

Wine writer Lettie Teague once described Sancerre as a wine about “pleasure and not profundity,” and in the heat and humidity of July/August, that’s exactly what we need. We discovered the Domaine de Sarry this spring, and their pure, delicious new Sancerre fits the summer white bill perfectly.

 

Brisk.  The Domaine de Sarry is a century old source a few kilometers outside the town of Sancerre. Like our favorites from the region, Sarry’s 2016 Sancerre is bright, juicy, and bursting with unoaked fruit. The nose shows intense, ripe grapefruit, with honeysuckle and faint notes of flint. The mouth is brisk, round, and very refreshing, with notes of lime zest, grapefruit peel, and minerals.

This wine would fit better alongside a bowl of mussels in a bistro than on a 3-star Michel white tablecloth. With no oak to interrupt the pure, exuberant Sauvignon Blanc fruit, this is a crisp antidote to a muggy July afternoon. Pour yourself a glass after work, and that summer heat won’t seem quite as exhausting.

 

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Sarry Sancerre 2016

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Sampler: 2015 Red Burgundies under $25

The 2015 red Burgundies have been great successes. Warm weather, small berries, and low yields made a vintage that many critics have called one of the best in decades. Most of the fancier 2015s are dense and tannic today, signaling excellent aging potential, but needing time to reach maturity.

But not all will require cellaring. Many of the simpler wines from the vintage have already started to drink beautifully. Their ripe fruit and juicy profiles make them delicious today. We’ve collected four of our favorites from this exceptional vintage, all ready to open now.

 

 

Amiot Bourgogne 2015
We only ever get a small allocation of this wine, but it’s always one of our favorite Bourgognes — the 2015 is lively and charming with wild cherry fruit and notes of violets.

Bourée Bourgogne 2015
Bourée’s Bourgogne is dark and delicious, showing the woodsy, smoky side of Pinot Noir. The tannins are punchy and approachable, with bursting fruit and refreshing texture.

Monnet Juliénas VV 2015
Monnet’s old-vine Juliénas is richer and more complete than many pinots from the rest of Burgundy. Look for stewed cranberries, graphite, and notes of roses in the nose.

Belland Maranges 1er cru 2015
This premier cru red Burgundy is already drinking well. It combines a town known for its rustic character with a winemaker who makes smooth, early drinking reds.

 

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Mixed Case: 2015 Red Burgundies

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Crisp, Refreshing, Everyday White Burgundy. $19

Forgotten.  We spent years in search of a nice Aligoté. Forever in the shadow of the finest Chardonnays in the world, Burgundy’s “other white grape” is neither profound nor expensive. Most of our searches yielded disappointment: wines with too much acid, too little body, or both.

But last year, we at last struck gold at last. Boyer-Martenot’s Aligoté is unlike any other we’ve had, with a rich mouthfeel and unusually complex bouquet. Vincent Boyer, a highly skilled craftsman of rich, elegant Meursault, has managed to apply a bit of his magic to this grape. Forget what you know about Aligoté — Boyer’s is real white Burgundy.

 

 

Smooth.  From vines with an average age over 40 years, and from the ripest vintage (2015) in a decade, Boyer’s Aligoté is smoother and rounder than any we’ve had. The secret is his use of 5- and 7-year-old barrels to age the wine — barrels too old to impart much oak flavor, but which help microoxygenation and add softness and depth.

In the nose Boyer’s 2015 Aligoté shows wild honey and herbs, with white flowers and classic green apple. The mouth is bright and lively, with a dry, chalky richness that’s nearly unheard of for Aligoté. For readers interested in making kir, we also managed to find an exceptional crème de cassis last summer — a glass of this wine joined by a splash of cassis will be a fantastic match.

But, for once, the cassis isn’t mandatory — this is a crisp, pleasant glass of white Burgundy on its own.

 

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Boyer-Martenot Aligoté 2015

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“Spectacular” New Chianti Classico Riserva; Sangiovese at its Finest.

Charming.  Perched on a charming Tuscan hillside, the Fattoria Poggerino is certainly one of the most attractive domaines in our portfolio. (If you’re ever in the area, we highly recommend a visit.) As it turns out, the wine is just as beautiful as the source — Poggerino often appears in the international wine press as a source for classic, affordable Chianti. Their careful organic viticulture results in wines of unusual purity, and they seem to get better each year.

Poggerino’s finest wine is their Chianti Classico Riserva called “Bugialla.” Like Poggerino’s other wines, this is pure, unblended Sangiovese. But the Riserva comes from their oldest vines — nearly 45 years old now — and is raised carefully in oak before bottling. Poggerino holds it a full year in the bottle before releasing it to the public.

 

 

Sophisticated.  With time in the bottle, Poggerino’s Riserva is remarkably elegant Chianti — as complex and subtle as many Burgundies we know. The density from the old vines and the time in oak means this is often hard to approach in its youth. But the 2013 is just beginning to show its stripes, and after an hour in a decanter (or another 3-4 years), you’ll wish you had more around.

The Riserva’s nose is dark in complexion and tenor, but also contains silky high notes of roses and minerals. We found lovely blackberry jam, cherries, and graphite in the nose, but it’s in the the mouth that this really comes alive. Look for a dynamic mouthfeel, with juicy notes of currants, licorice, and blueberries.

Tasting over a year ago, Jancis Robinson’s reviewer found “spectacular, gripping, juicy fruit on the palate,” and noted “great length and poise.” We can only imagine how effusive he’d be today.

 

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Poggerino Chianti Classico Riserva 2013

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Richness in Balance: Classic, Everyday White Burgundy. $25

Round.  Burgundy is where Chardonnay finds its finest expression. In cold climates, the grape can be acidic and thin; in hot climates, it runs the risk of high alcohol and over extraction. But in Burgundy, Chardonnay has the potential to strike its most elegant balance between soft, mouthfilling fruit, and crisp, refreshing acidity.

No one walks this line between fullness and crispness better than the Domaine Ravaut. The Ravaut family’s whites include some of the best we know, including an extraordinary, age-worthy Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne. But today’s offer is for their simplest — a Bourgogne blanc that combines the golden texture of elegant Chardonnay with a vibrant line of freshness.

 

 

Pears.  The Ravaut Family is a low-profile domaine in an often-forgotten town. They continue to sell most of their wine to loyal customers who visit their front door, and during our tastings their cellars are often crowded with visitors from Paris and elsewhere in France. The Ravauts fly mostly below the radar of the international wine press, and we feel lucky to have found them.

From a ripe, early drinking year, the Ravaut Bourgogne Blanc is an effortlessly drinkable glass of wine. The nose is expressive and attractive, showing pear and coconut, with a hint of lemon peel. The mouth is round and soft, with notes of almond and toast balanced by green apple freshness. There’s more chalky length than you’d expect from a wine of this level.

This has enough material to be a lovely glass on its own, but pair it with grilled chicken or fish, and your meal will be the essence of summer.

 

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Ravaut Bourgogne blanc 2015

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Perfectly Aged, 10-Year-Old Premier Cru Gevrey-Chambertin.

Hidden.  Visiting Pierre Bourée is always a treat. The Bourée family domaine in Gevrey-Chambertin is home to a warren of underground cellars, holding stocks dating well back into the 1980s. It can be hard for wine buyers to track the provenance and history of bottles from a decade ago, but at Bourée it’s simple — they’ve never left home.

Until now, that is. Today’s offer is for one of our recent finds from Bourées extensive back catalog: a premier cru Gevrey-Chambertin from 2006. The 2006 vintage was a success across Burgundy, producing solid wines with medium-term aging potential. Combine that with a decade of impeccable cellaring, and the result is gorgeous, perfectly mature red Burgundy.

 

Masculine.  The Champeaux vineyard sits high on the hill overlooking the town of Gevrey-Chambertin. With good drainage and excellent sun exposure, this slope, known as the Combe de Lavaut, is generally thought to have the best premier crus in town. Gevrey-Chambertin makes many of the richest, meatiest red wines in Burgundy, and with some patience and a good cellar, they can be transcendent.

Bourée’s 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru “Champeaux” is a delight. The nose is beefy and masculine, with hints of barbecue and umami alongside the briary baked red fruits. The mouth is long and velvety — more well-dressed gentleman than exuberant twentysomething — with notes of toast, earth, cassis, and blackberry pie.

This is drink-now red Burgundy with a decade under its belt. At the price it’s probably not a Tuesday evening wine, but anyone with a passing interest in well-aged red Burgundy should take note.

 

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Bourée Gevrey-Chambertin 1er “Champeaux” 2006

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Raspberries and Lavender: an Elegant Blend from the South

Class.  The Languedoc is one of the world’s oldest winegrowing regions, tracing its history back to 125 BC. For many years it has been known for abundant, cheap, and largely uninteresting wine, but in the past few years the region has seen a renaissance. There is a new wave of small scale winemakers, many committed to low-intervention, “natural” styles of winemaking. Our clear favorites in this category are the winemakers of the Mas Foulaquier.

Foulaquier’s vineyards embody the polyculture at the heart of their farming philosophy. The rows of vines are full of flowers, insects, and wild herbs — they even let a herd of nubian goats roam through the vines, trimming back the grass and fertilizing the soil. It’s Eden on a sunny hillside in southern France.

 

 

Complex.  And what do the wines taste like? In a word, they’re extraordinary. No other winemaker we work with produces wines of such varied complexity and depth. The wines mix perfectly ripe, juicy notes of raspberry, cherries, violets, and roses with earthy notes of spice, lavender, garrigue and leather. There’s more going on in a glass of Foulaquier than nearly any other wine we know.

The Gran’Tonillieres is Foulaquier’s flagship wine – made from 60 year old vines of Grenache and Carignan, it shows extraordinary complexity but with elegance and grace. Raspberries appear on the label, and they are an apt hint of what’s inside. The wine is too complex to name (or know) all the notes, but highlights include leather, earth, and rosemary.

If you’re at all interested in the “natural” wine movement, this is a delicious first one to try. We can’t promise all the others will be this good, but we’re pretty sure you’ll like this one.

 

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Foulaquier Gran’T 2011

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“Simply Terrific,” 5-Year-Old Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru, 93 points

The Pearl.  No town in France is more celebrated for its wines than Vosne-Romanée. Home to some of the world’s finest and most sought-after bottles, Vosne is undoubtedly the most famous Pinot Noir village on earth. Michel Gros is a lifelong resident. His family has made wine there for centuries, and his mother was once the mayor.

Gros farms small plots of vines across the tiny appellation, and today’s offer is for one of our favorites: the premier cru “Aux Brûlées.” Located just 10 feet from the famous “Richebourg” Grand Cru, this vineyard turns out extraordinary wine year in and year out. The 2012 vintage has begun to offer delightful drinking already, and we’re pleased to offer the 2012 Aux Brûlées today.

This is the height of Burgundian elegance — farmed and crafted by a master winemaker, and drawn from his family’s historic and hallowed land.

 

 

Historic.  Vosne-Romanée is a tiny appellation, covering only half of a square mile. Founded in the 6th Century, the town has been famous for its wines for almost as long. Monks from the nearby priories of Vergy and Saint-Vivant noticed the quality of the wines from the land just west of Vosne in the 9th century, and they’ve gotten pricier and more exclusive ever since.

Whether you have the Burgundy bug or just an interest in beautifully crafted wine, Gros’s Vosne-Romanée 1er cru “Aux Brûlées” is exceptional. It perfectly marries the depth and richness of high-level red Burgundy with the silky elegance found only in Vosne-Romanée. Look for notes of plum, cassis, stewed cherries, and violets. Allen Meadows (Burghound) called this wine “generous and fleshy,” and found “excellent length and simply terrific complexity.”

Vosne-Romanée is jewel of any Burgundy enthusiast’s collection, and while it’s never cheap (particularly as a premier cru), it rarely disappoints.

 

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Michel Gros Vosne-Romanée 1er cru “Aux Brûlées” 2012

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