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Inky, Delicious, Gulpable New Gamay. $18

The Gamay grape has had a turbulent history in Burgundy. In 1395 Duke Philip the Bold concluded Gamay was “evil and disloyal,” and banished it from the northern half of Burgundy. For the past six centuries it has found refuge in Beaujolais, where it produces mostly simple reds -- fruit-forward and inexpensive.