Ask any critic which Burgundy village produces the most muscular wines, and nine of ten will tell you Gevrey-Chambertin. It’s a huge village, one blessed a wide range of terroir, with more old vines and more Grand Cru vineyards than any other in Burgundy. And its wines tend to be similarly brawny — plenty dense and often needing some time to round out and drink well.
Gerard Quivy produces small quantities of wine in Gevrey Chambertin. At the village level, “En Champs” comes from vines aged between 50 and 100 years old. Quivy’s wine from “Journaux” comes from vines planted in 1947 and 1933. The premier cru “Les Corbeaux” comes from old and extremely well situated vines, right along the border between this excellent premier cru vineyard and the Grand Cru Mazis-Chambertin.
Mr. Quivy’s plot in the Grand Cru Charmes-Chambertin is tiny — two ouvrees, or enough for 500 bottles in all. (“Ouvree” is an ancient land measurement that comes from “ouvrier,” the French word for worker. It is said to be based upon the number of vines that one worker could tend in a day). The wine is rich and dense, and always need time in the cellar to show its greatness.