Collet Chablis 1er “Montée de Tonnerre” 19

$38

In just over a decade, winemaker Romain Collet has turned his family’s reliable if unremarkable domaine into one of the very best sources in Chablis. The wine press has taken notice too; William Kelley finds “a lot to admire here,” and Jasper Morris recently opined that Romain Collet “is moving towards joining the pantheon in Chablis.”

The celebrated Montée de Tonnerre lies right next to the slope with all the Grand Crus. In elevage, this is the most like the wines of the Côte d’Or, spending 16 months in small oak barrels. This carries through to the palate, where notes of oak play a more noticeable part. This wine is considerably more understated than the first three, and will require some patience — but cellaring should be rewarded with a sophisticated blend of dry fruit and minerals.

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