Gautheron Chablis 1er cru “Vaucoupin” 2020

Not Cyril Gautheron. His commitment to original Chablisien style is unwavering, and even today’s premier cru, bursting with an extra dose of citrus fruit and energy, is 100% stainless steel. Gautheron’s 2020 Chablis 1er Vaucoupin is pure, shimmering, and unadorned — a modern Chablis in a perfectly classic style.

Gautheron’s vines here are 50 years old, and produce intense concentrated juice. The clay-rich, south-facing soils produce a wine that Cyril somehow manages to reign into a neat, precise package. We found a terrific blend of fruit, freshness, savory herbs and minerality, with a hint of saline on the finish. Bill Nanson found “saline-edged citrus complexity. Chablis pure!”