Gross Pinot Gris “Osperling” 2016 (Orange)

$32

This is one of Gross’s “vins de masceration,” also called “orange” wine.  (In fact they are not all orange; the color ranges from straw to orange and in between.) These are wines made from white wine grapes but vinified like reds. Red wines ferment with their skins (the source of their color), and white wines are generally pressed off the skins and ferment only with juice. To create orange wines, winemakers ferment the white grapes together with the skins and lees — often for 8 or more months in large barrels. The technique extracts tannins and other elements from the skins, and results in a complex and fascinating palate.

The Pinot Gris VDM Osperling is mouthfilling and rich on the palate, but without a hint of sweetness. The nose is savory and dry, with notes of herbal honey and dried flowers. There’s ripe stone fruit with good supporting acidity in the mouth, making the finish clean and precise.

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