Michel Gros HCDN Fontaine-Saint-Martin blanc 2017

$38

The Fontaine-Saint-Martin vineyard is a particularly well-located plot in the Hautes-Côtes. The soil is the same mix of marl, clay, and limestone found not far away on the Hill of Corton, and its smooth floral quality readily calls to mind the famous Grand Cru. Indeed Vinous’s Neal Martin cited the “gras-like texture found in Corton-Charlemagne” describing the 2017, finding it “delightful,” “well balanced,” and “nicely controlled.”

The 2017 Fontaine-St-Martin blanc is smooth and ripe but with a lovely freshness. The nose is floral, showing gardenia, white pepper, pears, toasted lemon. The mouth is intense and smooth, at once mouthfilling and fresh. Burghound called it “round, succulent and lightly stony” with “unusually good volume.”

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