Perrachon Moulin-a-Vent Burdelines 2018

$24

From meticulously cultivated old vines and careful use of oak, Perrachon creates remarkably delicious and refined red Burgundies. We’re not the only ones to notice; the domaine is among the only Beaujolais producers reviewed (and praised) by both Josh Raynolds (Vinous) and Allen Meadows (Burghound).

The 2018 Burdelines, is raised like a Côte d’Or red Burgundy — in small oak barrels. Though it is of course Gamay, the wine can evolve strikingly like Pinot Noir. Indeed there is a term in the Beaujolais, “pinoté,” to describe the way the bouquet evolves to mimic Pinot Noir. The nose shows a lovely mix of Gamay perfume and woodsy toasty sweet spice. The finish is quite long, and tasted blind you’d have a hard time pegging this as Beaujolais.

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