Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin 1er “Clos des Varoilles” 2018

$99

From old vines, clay-rich Gevrey terroir, and an unusually bold vintage, this is as muscly and intense as red Burgundy gets. The blend of sweet fruit and oak recall a big time Pomerol in the mouth, though the essential character is of course Burgundian. Burghound found “notes of poached plum, black cherry jam, and subtle hints of spice, warm earth and the sauvage.” In fact, the 2018 is closer to a Grand Cru than usual in intensity and sheer size.

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