Thomas St-Aubin “Champ Tirant” 2019

$38

When we started buying from Gerard Thomas most writers saw St Aubin as a sideshow to the celebrated white Burgundy towns of the Côte de Beaune. Whether it’s a changing climate or merely recognition of what has been there all along, today’s writers put St. Aubin at a comparable quality level; yet the wines remain more affordable.

The nose of the 2019 is delightful, with subtle notes of clove and spice, a lovely complement to the ripe citrus fruit in the mouth. It persists on the palate longer than does the Bourgogne, and the overall impression is one of finesse more than punch. Julia Harding MW called it “generous and creamy.”

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