Micro-vignerons. The town of Morey-St-Denis exemplifies the small scale of Burgundian winemaking. Wedged between two more famous neighbors, this village of 680 people has a vineyard surface of under 4 tenths of a square mile. It’s dark, delicious, classic red Burgundy — there just isn’t much of it to go around.
Michel Gros has a tiny parcel in Morey-St-Denis, from which he makes fewer than 1000 bottles annually. The vines are perched on the hill above the town, and the vineyard directly borders three Grand Crus: Clos de Tart, Clos des Lambrays, and Bonnes-Mares. The parcel, “En la Rue de Vergy,” is named for the ancient path to the historic Saint-Vivant Abbey in Vergy.
Concentration. Clive Coates describes the wines of Morey as a cross between the silkiness of Chambolle-Musigny and the sturdiness of Gevrey-Chambertin. Gros’s Morey-St-Denis is closer to the Chambolle side, and shows an elegant mouthfeel that’s typical of his style. We found beautiful, dark blackberry fruit in this wine, with cool, ripe tannins.
In 2012 the yields in Gros’s Morey plot were 25% lower than usual, and the result is a year with extra concentration and excellent depth. Allen Meadows (Burghound) was impressed with the 2012, calling it “delicious and attractively textured,” and with “very fine minerality,” and a “velvety, lingering finish.”
We found a beautiful tension in this wine, at once rich and energetic. This should help it age well, and make it an easy match with foods — game birds are the best pairing we’ve found.
MICHEL GROS Morey-St-Denis 2012
Ansonia Retail: $68
offer price: $59/bot
AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS