We’re often asked how we discover new winemakers. The answer is a combination of recommendations, wine journals, and critical reviews, but the most enjoyable way, or at least the most delicious, is through local wine lists.
A good French restaurant takes pride in its wine list. The restaurateur will curate a thoughtful collection of interesting wines, often from winemaker friends and acquaintances. And so when two of our favorite Beaune restaurants featured several bottles this year from a domaine we’d never heard of, we had to give them a try.
And thus we stumbled across the Domaine Borhmann, one of the most exciting discoveries we’ve made in years. Last week we wrote about their exquisite white Saint-Aubin, and at our Saturday warehouse tasting in Newton it blew our seasoned Burgundy tasters away. Today we’re excited to introduce Borhmann’s excellent Bourgogne rouge.
Borhmann’s Bourgogne vines are across the RN-74 from Pommard. At 35 years old, they’re more mature than many Bourgogne-level vines, and their fruit produces a wine of real complexity.
If Borhmann’s whites are thick and full of rippling intensity, their reds are similarly gorgeous but a beat more refined and precise. They use 70% whole clusters, giving the wines excellent definition and exquisite tension. The 2017 is juicy and easy to enjoy, but shows real depth and character.
The nose shows dusty red cherries over an ethereal earthiness. It’s elegant rather than muscly, showing unusual subtlety for a Bourgogne-level red. At $32 it’s well-priced, and as a 2017 it’s ready to drink. Nobody you serve it to this fall will know the domaine, but after a sip or two they won’t care.
Bohrmann Bourgogne rouge 2017
bottle price: $32
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