To the uninitiated, Riesling is a cheap, insipid wine — rarely interesting, and never noble. But to those in the know, Riesling can be vibrant, dry, and extraordinarily well priced.
No white grape varietal communicates its origin as fluently. As writer Terry Theise puts it, “Riesling does more than just imply terroir: it subsumes its own identity as fruit into the greater meaning of soil, land, and place.”
The most recent addition to our Riesling collection is a dry cuvée from Domaine Gross, a small, biodynamic family source in Alsace. A perfectly dry, everyday white wine.
Vincent Gross is a young, enthusiastic winemaker practicing biodynamic viticulture, and producing truly exciting wines. With the retirement of Francis Muré, our longtime Alsatian source, our discovery of Gross couldn’t be timed more perfectly.
Gross’s 2018 Riesling is everything you want it to be. The nose is a gorgeous marriage of high-toned fruits and stony minerals. The mouth is dry and electric — notes of grapefruit, lemon peel, apples and pears.
With everyone cooking at home these days, this is as useful as a good sharp kitchen knife. Pair this on its own, with fish dishes, or with a classic tarte flambé (Alsatian Pizza). You’ll find yourself wishing all $19 wines were this good.
Gross Riesling 2018
bottle price: $22
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