Winemaker: Where much red Burgundy tends towards subtleness and finesse, the Varoilles style is noticeably more intense. They harvest relatively late, and use a long cold soak to extract loads of flavor and texture from their grapes.
Appellation: Varoilles is best known (and deservedly so) for their terrific village-level and premier cru Gevrey-Chambertins. They only began making a Bourgogne-level wine two years ago, but it’s an exciting addition to their lineup.
Wine: The nose is big and spicy, with briary blackberry fruit, notes of woods, cinnamon, and a hint of ginger. The mouth is bold and smooth with a solid texture laid under intense masculine fruit.
Suggestions: No need to cellar this — as with all 2017 red Burgundies, it’s chewy, juicy, approachable and delightful. Pair it with roasted meats (duck, if you can find, or a roasted chicken on a Sunday afternoon.
Varoilles Bourgogne 2017
bottle price: $42
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