Today’s wine comes from one of the most famous names in Chassagne-Montrachet. We’ve imported their wines for our Futures group for decades, but their national importer kicked up a fuss about us a few years ago. So to avoid conflict we’ve taken them out of our main sales channels.
But we still have some stock from an earlier vintage in our warehouse, so (inspired by a west-coast wineseller who does this from time to time) we’re offering the wine without releasing its name. Here’s what we can tell you:
An iconic source. This producer is among the most famous names in Burgundy. The current winemaker, at the helm for the last 32 years, has recently completed conversion to organic viticulture. In the last decade she has modernized the house style, converting her opulent, palate-coating Chassagnes into something sleeker and more modern. Clive Coates MW considers her wines “not merely very good but fine;” Jasper Morris MW calls her top cuvées “spectacular” and “impressive.”
An exceptional vintage: The 2017 white Burgundies are considered the best since 2014, and among the best in the last decade. They combine loads of fruit with intense energy and tension, build for mid-term aging and providing excellent early drinking too.
A great value: This cuvée comes from the hills to the west of Chassagne-Montrachet, and so carries a friendlier pricetag. After a somewhat awkward youth, the bottle we opened of this recently was just terrific. Look for pretty lemon and white flowers in the nose, very low oak, and attractive chalky notes. The mouth is round and lovely, with plenty of depth and excellent freshness.
Jasper Morris found it “Fresh and attractively reductive…. Fresh energy, lime acidity at the back, good tension, delicious in its style. Good length too.” We don’t have much of this around, but are excited to share what we do.
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Mystery 2017 White Burgundy
bottle price: $36
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