Nearly all the wines in the world (and most of those we import) are made with added sulfur dioxide. This centuries-old non-toxic compound protects wine from bacteria growth and oxidation. Sulfited wines are more predictable, more stable, and have a greater capacity to age.
Vincent Gross is an exciting young winemaker in Alsace — a fervent believer in natural winemaking and biodynamic philosophies. Gross uses minimal sulfites in all his cuvées, giving up a bit of stability for an increased complexity and nuance. But for today’s cuvée Gross adds none at all.
(For a more intensive discussion of natural wines, see our Journal Post.)
The resulting cuvée is simply delicious — bursting and effusive and exploding out of the glass. We’re not advocating the technique for everyone, and we don’t recommend cellaring this wine — but for this summer, it’s a carefully made, terrifically successful natural wine.
Gross’s 2018 Pinot Noir “R” bursts with cherries, mint, violets, and wild herbal honey in the nose. The mouth has softened tannins and a gorgeous freshness. It blew tasters away at our Zoom tasting last weekend, and we think it’s just the ticket for a hot summer evening.
Gross Pinot Noir “R” 2018
bottle price: $34
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