Springtime has returned. Baseball is back, green shoots are pushing through the dirt, and but for a freak snowstorm here and there we seem to be on the path to warmer weather. It’s not quite rosé season yet, but that’s not far off either.
When the words “muscular” and “red Burgundy” appear together, Gevrey-Chambertin is likely the subject. The wines of Gevrey-Chambertin are generally considered Burgundy’s richest, and can be among the longest lived. Clive Coates MW calls them “sturdy, rich, masculine” and “fleshy,” concluding that they’re “more flamboyant than Vosne, and more substantial than Chambolle.”
The most important thing in winemaking is the marriage of grape and place. Chardonnay grows on nearly every continent, but only in Burgundy does it produce such superlative results. Syrah in the Northern Rhône, Merlot in Bordeaux, Riesling in the Mosel, Chenin Blanc in the Loire — these matches have been perfected over centuries of winemaking. Also on that list is the marriage of Sangiovese to Tuscany.
Chardonnay is responsible for all of Burgundy’s finest white wines. But 10% of white wine vineyards in Burgundy are Aligoté, a less celebrated grape that produces simple, refreshing wines. Aligoté is seldom magnificent, but in the hands of the right winemaker it can be delicious.
Only two white wine terroirs in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or hold the status of Grand Cru. Montrachet and its satellites, in the south between Chassagne and Puligny, are the more famous. The other is Corton-Charlemagne, perched on a large hill marking the midpoint of the Côte d’Or, so named after it was made a gift from the Holy Roman Emperor.
The 2015 vintage turned out excellent red wines all across Burgundy. From the Beaujolais to Dijon, and from simple Bourgogne to illustrious Grand Crus, the 2015s are worthy of all their considerable praise. Their perfect structures hint at long lives, but their fruits make them simply delightful today.
St. Aubin is the insider’s white Burgundy. For years we’ve pointed our friends and customers here for remarkable values. We are not alone – author/sommelier Rajat Parr writes that “it produces some of the best-value Chardonnays in the world.” Jancis Robinson recently wrote that though once passed over for its more famous neighbors Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny Montrachet, St-Aubin “should now be regarded as virtually their equal.”
“Natural” wines can be hard to get right, but when they’re good they can be extraordinary. The wines of the Mas Foulaquier are undoubtedly the finest and most consistent biodynamic reds in our portfolio. The cuvées are exceptionally clean and well formed, marrying ripe fruit with earthy notes from their rugged terroir.
Chablis remains one of the best bargains in the wine world. Though the past few years have brought devastating frosts and hailstorms to the region and available quantities have plummeted, winemakers have only gently raised prices. Where village level white Burgundies from the Côte d’Or quickly push past $60, fine Premier Cru Chablis can still be had for under $40.
The best food-wine pairings enhance both elements. Oysters and Chablis, blue cheese and Sauternes, tomato sauce and Sangiovese — these classic pairings have been around so long for a reason. And among the most traditional (and successful) is steak and red wine. Bordeaux may be more famous for its marriage with steak, but we think […]
Côtes du Rhône is one of the world’s most widely recognizable wine brands. There’s a wide range of styles out there, and we have favorites in many camps. For rustic and rugged we like the Domaine les Goubert. For refined and serious, we like the Domaine Malmont. But for easygoing, fruit-forward, and effortlessly drinkable, it’s hard to beat the Domaine Coulange.
White Burgundy is among the food-friendliest wines around. It’s possible to go really specific with the pairing — match a perfectly aged Meursault, open for an hour, with veal medallions in just the right amount cream, a hint of lemon, carefully sauteed mushrooms, a sprig of parsley… you get the idea.
Much like Volnay and Pommard we wrote about recently, Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-St-Georges are neighboring towns with opposing characters. Vosne tends towards elegance, finesse, and spice; Nuits towards richness, more structure, and bolder flavors. In the hands of a talented winemaker, both can be superb.
Pascal Bardoux is a quiet, pensive winemaker. In Champagne, land of glitzy tasting rooms and glossy brochures, his humble demeanor and unassuming style distinguish him. Our tastings together are long and measured — each wine has time to develop in the glass, and a discussion follows with precise references to rare fruits and other scents.
